7 ,•*-'- 











■ 



■ : ' 



' V#! ."> ' :k.V^X!" ■ . ■ . 



i^V> 



■ 



.e V* 



» W 



I 





^M 



^M 



■ 



V:*..,-: 



IIM O/^k 1MA-* 



THE 



Modern Retail 



CONFECTIONER, 



CONTAINING 



Practical Recipes, 

With Detailed Wokking Instkuctions fok the Manufacture 

— OF — 

Fine Hand-Made Candies, Ice Creams, Water 
Ices, Soda -Water Syrups, Fine Cakes, 
Icing, Oyster Cooking, and Gen- 
eral Information of Value 
to the Retailer. 



— V^ 

BY O. H. PORTKR, 

Practical Confectioner. 

_ Jl/N 20 1887J 

PEORIA, ILL.: V!^~VVa S hWg£2 

II. S. HILL PRINTING COMPANY, 

1887. 



/< 



■\ 



\ 






Entered according- to Act of Congress, in the year 1SS7, 

By G. H. PORTER, 
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington. 



£ 'A 



INTRODUCTORY. 



The author does not claim this little volume to be 
a school for experts, embodying new and wonderful 
discoveries, or even as containing a large part of what 
is known of the Confectioner's Art. The book is 
designed especially for the benefit of that large and 
steadily increasing class who, with a limited knowl- 
edge or experience, engage in the retail confectionery 
business, and whose trade will not warrant the 
expense of a skilled and high-priced workman, yet 
who wish, through business pride and a desire to 
advance their own interests, to offer their customers 
an attractive and superior line of goods. With this 
end in view, only such recipes and information as will 
be of practical value to the retailer are introduced. 

With this brief explanation, the book is sent forth 
to seek approval only on its merits. 



ERRATA. 

Almond Paste, on page 67, fifth line, read: then cook 
four founds sugar, etc. The words Jour founds are omitted. 
Bisque, on page 97, second line, read: gallon instead of 

gui. 

Cocoanut Cakes, on page 63, fourth line, read: Take of 
sugar, etc., instead of Make, etc. Also, fourth line from bot- 
tom, read: push it off, etc., instead of punch it off. 

On page 71, third line from bottom, read: Fondant can be 
worked in the pan, instead of in the can. 



CONTENTS. 



PART FIRST. 



CANDY- MAKING. 
Tools 15 



COLORS. 



Red, Cochineal, Liquid ... 17 

Red Paste Color 18 

Liquid Carmine 18 

Yellow 19 



Blue 19 

Green 19 

Orange 19 

Brandy Color 19 



SUGAR. 



Degrees of Boiling Sugar.. 22 
Hand Test 23 



Points to be Remembered 



2 5 



TAFFIES— or "Chew Candies." 



Vanilla Taffy 29 

Lemon Taffy. 30 

Strawberry Taffy 30 

Pineapple Taffy 31 



Chocolate Taffy 31 

Molasses Taffy 31 

Taffy Drops 32 



CARAMELS. 



Vanilla Caramels 33 

Lemon Caramels 35 

Maple Caramels 35 

Strawberry Caramels. .... 35 

Chocolate Caramels 36 



Chocolate-Cream Caramels 36 

Cocoanut Caramels 36 

English Walnut Caramels. 36 

Pulled Caramels 37 

Opera Caramels 37 



IV 



CONTENTS. 



STICK CANDY. 



Lemon Stick 40 

Peppermint Stick 42 

Wintergreen Stick 43 

Cinnamon Stick 43 

Sassafras Stick 43 

Clove Stick 44 



Cream Stick 44 

Barber Poles 45 

Small Peppermint Kisses. . 45 

Large Peppermint Kisses. 45 

Boston Chips 45 



FLAKE CANDY. 



Vanilla 47 

Lemon 47 

Cinnamon 47 



Butter Scotch. . 47 

Baby Candy 48 



MACHINE DROPS. 



Sour, or Lemon Drops. ... 49 

Orange Drops 50 

Strawberry Drops. 50 



Lime Drops or Tablets. 

Tar Drops 

Flat Drops or Squares... 



• 5o 

• 5° 



NUT CANDIES. 



Peanut Bar 53 

Almond Bar 53 

Blanched Almond Bar. ... 54 

Tutti Frntti, or Fruit Bar. 54 

Brown Nougat 54 

Hickory Nut Chips. 55 



Black Walnut Nougat .... 56 

Butter Cups 57 

Chocolate Cups. 58 

Taffy Cups 58 

Caramel or Glazed Fruits. 59 



GRAINED WORK. 



Mint Drops 61 

Fig Bar 62 

Cocoanut Cakes 63 

Cocoanut Bar. . 64 

Black Crook 64 

White Crooks 64 

Japanese Cocoanut 65 

Cream Almonds 65 



Burnt Almonds 66 

Salted Almonds 67 

Almond Paste 67 

To Blanch Almonds. 67 

To Pop Corn 6S 

Pop-Corn Balls. 68 

Sugar-Coated Pop Corn . . 69 



CONTENTS. 



FONDANT. 



Fondant, or Cream 70 

Fondant for Dipping 71 

Fondant for Casting 71 



Fondant for Hand-Mades . 71 

For Dipping 72 

For Casting 72 



WAFERS. 



Mint Cream Wafers 74 

Vanilla Cream Wafers. ... 74 
Lemon Cream Wafers. ... 74 
Wintergreen Cream Wafers 75 



Cinnamon Cream Wafers. 75 
Pistache Cream Wafers. . . 75 
Chocolate Cream Wafers.. 75 



ICINGS. 



Plain Icings 



76 

Fancy Icings 76 

Conserve Icings. 77 

Cream Fruit Nougat 77 



Fruit Cake 77 

Cocoanut Cream Paste.. . . 78 

Maple Cocoanut Paste.. . 78 

Chocolate Cocoanut Paste. 78 



HAND-MADES. 



Crab Apples 79 

Rolls 80 

Cream Dates Si 



Cream Walnuts. 81 

Syrup for Crystalizing ... 82 
Fondant without Cooking. S3 



CHOCOLATE WORK. 



Chocolate Cream Drops. . . 86 
Walnut Chocolate Creams. 86 



Varnish for Chocolate. . . . S6 
Colored Sugar, Sugar Sand 87 



PART SECOND. 



ICE CREAM. 



Remarks 91 

To Make Five Gallons. . . 95 

For Lemon 96 

For Strawberry (imitation) 96 



Chocolate 96 

Bisque 97 

Tutti Frutti 97 

Fruit Creams 97 



VI 



CONTENTS. 



MOULDED CREAM. 

Neapolitan Ice Cream.. ... 99 j Nesselrode Pudding Glace. 10: 
Pistache 100 



WATER ICES. 



Lemon Ice 103 

Orange Ice 103 

Pineapple Ice 104 



Roman Punch 104 

Charlotte de Russe 104 

Extract of Vanilla 106 



CAKE BAKING. 



Remarks 10S 

Pound Cake. 10S 

Jelly Cake 109 

Jelly Roll 109 

Jelly Diamonds 109 

Fruit Cake 110 

White or Delicate Cake ... 1 10 

Citron Cake 1 1 1 

Hickory-Nut Cake 1 1 1 



Marble Cake 1 1 1 

Angel Cake 1 1 1 

Cream Puffs 112 

Cream Kisses 113 

Lady Fingers 113 

Fine Jumbles 114 

Macaroons 114 

Fried Cakes 115 

Icing or Frosting 116 



SYRUPS FOR SODA WATER. 



Foundation 119 

Fruit Acid 1 19 

Lemon Syrup 1 20 

Vanilla Syrup 120 

Sarsaparilla 120 

Ginger Syrup 120 

Nectar Syrup. 120 



Coffee Syrup 121 

Chocolate Syrup 121 

Fruit Syrups, Artificial. . . 121 
Fruit Syrups, Genuine.. . . 122 

Cream Syrup 122 

Ice Cream Soda 122 

Ice Cream Punch 123 



OYSTER COOKING. 



Stewed Oysters 124 

Plain or Water Stew 125 

Milk Stew 125 

Pan Roast ...125 



Broil 126 

Shell Roast 126 

Fried Oysters 127 

Coffee 128 



PART FIRST. 



Candy-Making 



TOOLS. 

In the manufacture of Candy, on however small 
a scale, the following tools and appliances are indis- 
pensible: A furnace; stone slab; candy table; copper 
pan; candy hook; adjustable cutter, or caramel cut- 
ter; a batch knife, or large butcher knife; and a table 
heater, or batch warmer. 

The furnace can be bought, ready made, of almost 
any size or pattern. The furnace opening should be 
nearly as large as the circumference of the cany pan, 
so as to give the largest heating surface. 

The stone slab should be from two to four inches 
thick, of common white marble or Joliet limestone, 
perfectly smooth top-surface, and when set in place on 
frame should be leveled with a spirit level. 

The candy or boiling pan should be of the shal- 
low pattern, as best suited to rapid evaporation. 

Various devices are used for table heaters. Prob- 
ably the most convenient and economical table heater 



1 6 MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. 

— where one is not used continuously, sometimes for 
but one batch — is a charcoal heater, after this fash- 
ion: An oblong sheet-iron box, open in front and bot- 
tom, about two feet long, twelve or fourteen inches 
high and ten inches deep, with a three-inch pipe at 
top, to carry the gases to some convenient outlet; a 
detached apron or door to close the front. A place 
should be provided on the candy table for the heater, 
thus: In the left-hand end of the table, about ten 
inches from the front, cut an oblong hole somewhat 
larger than the bottom of the heater; box this open- 
ing to a sufficient depth to allow of a layer of sand 
an inch or more thick and one layer of brick, the top 
of the brick coming flush with or a little higher than 
the surface of the table. The heater can be placed 
on this hearth without fastening, with a few loose 
bricks set on edge on the inside for " backing. " A 
few pieces of charcoal will give sufficient heat for a 
batch. A very desirable thing is a sheet-iron bonnet, 
and ventilator over the furnace to carry off the steam 
and gas. If you value your health, never use a dam- 
per above the fire to shut off the draft, thus forcing 
the gases into the room; the draft can be regulated 
by the damper below the fire. 

Have a "pan rest" convenient to the furnace — a 
keg or small barrel, with open end up, will do. It 
will be very useful and save the bottom of the pan 
from wear and bruises. 



COLORS 



All of the different colors needed by the confec- 
tioner are now manufactured expressly for the pur- 
pose, in dry, paste or liquid form, and non-injurious; 
nevertheless, every confectioner should understand 
the preparation of those colors in most common use. 

RED, COCHINEAL IN LIQUID FORM. 

Two ounces cochineal, powdered or ground, not 
too fine; two ounces alum, pounded; two ounces sala- 
ratus; three ounces cream of tartar; one quart water. 
Put the water and alum in a clean, bright copper pan, 
place on the fire, and stir with a wooden paddle until 
the alum is dissolved; then add the cochineal. When 
it comes to the boil, add the cream of tartar. Let 
boil again and set off the fire, and add the salaratus, 
a little at a time, as it causes violent effervescence. 
After all is added, boil gently a few minutes, and 
strain through a coarse muslin or flannel bag into an 
earthen vessel. This is a nice color, but will not keep 
very long, and is not so convenient for general use as 
the paste color. 

3 



l8 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

RED PASTE COLOR. 

Powdered cochineal, two ounces; alum, powdered 
line, two ounces; salts of tartar, two ounces; cream 
of tartar, four ounces. Mix well together the coch- 
ineal, cream of tartar and salts of tartar, and place in 
earthen vessel. Dissolve the alum in a little water in 
a copper basin, over a gentle fire. When dissolved, 
pour it on the other ingredients, and stir or mix well 
together. When mixed it should be about the con- 
sistency of batter, and if not thin enough more water 
can be added. The mass will puff and rise several 
hours after mixing, after which it is ready for use. 

The powdered cochineal of commerce frequently 
contains traces of iron from the machinery used in 
powdering, which injures the color. To be sure of a 
good color, get the whole cochineal and pound it in a 
wedgewood mortar, and sieve through a piece of fine 
Swiss muslin stretched over an old sieve-frame. 

A beautiful paste color can be made by boiling 
down the liquid color — first formula. To one-third 
of its original bulk add about three-fourths of a pound 
of white sugar, and boil to a thread. Be careful to 
allow neither tin or iron to come in contact with 
colors. 

LIQUID CARMINE. 

Take No. 40 carmine; mix in a glass or earthen- 
ware vessel with water sufficient to make a thin 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. IQ, 

paste. When mixed smoothly, thin it with more 
water and add sufficient spirits of ammonia to bring 
it to a dark, clear red. The strength of the color 
will depend on the amount of water used. Keep in a 
corked bottle. 

YELLOW. 

Take of fustic, two ounces; one quart water; one 
ounce of alum, pounded; ten or twelve ounces of 
white sugar; boil a few minutes, and strain through 
a flannel bag. When cold, a little neutral spirits may 
be added to help its keeping qualities. 

BLUE. 

Indigo rubbed in a mortar, with simple syrup, to 
a smooth, thin paste, and diluted with spirits. 

GREEN 

Can be made by a combination of yellow and blue. 

ORANGE. 

A combination of yellow and red. 

BRANDY OR BURNT SUGAR COLOR. 

Put sugar — clear scraps will do — into a copper 
pan; dissolve with water, and cook on a moderate 
fire until it burns black as tar; then add hot water, a 



20 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

little at a time, until to the consistency of thin syrup. 
Don't let the sugar burn to a cinder — it would not 
mix with the water, and would be of no use what- 
ever. 



SUGAR 



Sugar is the basis of all confectionery, and the 
workman must have some knowledge of its proper- 
ties and peculiarities to insure any degree of success 
in the art of candy- making. First-class goods require 
first-class sugars. Inferior sugars are sometimes used 
for a certain line of goods in large wholesale factories, 
but would be poor economy for the retail manufac- 
turer, whose margins are sufficiently large as to make 
large sales of vastly more importance than the saving 
of the fraction of a cent per pound on the raw 
material. 

Good sugar should be white, clear and sparkling; 
coarse rather than fine grained; dry, and sharp to 
the touch when rubbed between the thumb and finger. 
Sugar, under nearly all conditions, has a tendency to 
assume the granular form; and this tendency, under 
all the varied forms of treatment, will have to be con- 
sidered by the workman — sometimes taking advant- 
age of it, and sometimes destroying or modifying it 
to a greater or less extent by the use of acids, such 
as vinegar, ascetic acid and cream of tartar, the last 



22 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

named being more commonly used. Glucose is also 
used as a preventive of granulation as well as an 
adulterant, and is especially useful in low-cooked 
goods. 

DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR. 

On this subject, both in nomenclature and arrange- 
ment of degrees, authorities differ somewhat, though 
probably not enough to create much confusion. I 
will give what I consider a practically correct ver- 
sion: 

Saccharometer. Thermometer. 

ist degree — The Pearl 33 220 

2d " " Small Thread 35 223 

3d " " Large Thread 37 226 

4th « « Blow 40 230 

5th " « Feather 42 236 

6th « " Soft Ball 45 242 

7th " « Hard Ball 250 

8th « « Soft Crack 254 

9th " " Medium Crack 260 

10th " " Hard Crack 284 

nth " " Caramel 340 to 360 



The caramel degree is somewhat uncertain, but is 
generally understood as the highest point to which 
sugar can be cooked without carbonizing or turning 
dark. The saccharometer does not test correctly 
higher than the soft ball. The saccharometer and 
thermometer are very useful instruments in the candy 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 23 

shop; but, while not discouraging their use, I would 
advise earnestly the hand test as the most convenient 
for general work. 

HAND TEST. 

The Pearl Degree we will leave to the sac- 
charometer. 

Small Thread. — Dip the skimmer into the boil- 
ing sugar, raise it, and by touching it get some of the 
adhering syrup onto the point of the index finger, 
press it on the thumb, and separate. Repeat several 
times, and if a thread of syrup appears between the 
thumb and ringer an inch or less long before break- 
ing, the degree has been reached. 

Large Thread. — Test as before. If the thread 
holds to four or five inches in length, the degree is 
reached. 

Blow. — Raise the skimmer from the boiling 
sugar and blow through it. If the syrup has acquired 
the proper density, small bubbles will appear on the 
other side, indicating the degree. 

Feather. — Test as for the preceding. If the 
bubbles are larger and more numerous, the degree is 
reached. This degree can also be detected in the fol- 
lowing manner: Have a vessel of cold water; wet 
the index ringer and dip it into the boiling sugar, and 
quickly back again into the water, which will cool 



24 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

the adhering syrup instantly; remove from the water, 
and with the thumb push the adhering syrup towards 
the point of the finger, where it will appear as a soft 
mucilage-like mass, if the degree is reached. 

Soft Ball. — Test as for preceding. Let the fin- 
ger remain in the water until the syrup is thoroughly 
cool. If it can, with thumb and finger, be rolled into 
a ball, though soft, the degree is reached. 

Hard Ball. — Test as before, and when the syrup 
can be rolled into a firm, hard ball, the degree is 
reached. 

Soft Crack. — Test as before. When immersed 
in the water, quickly remove the syrup from the fin- 
ger with the thumb, to avoid burning the finger. 
This precaution should be taken in the succeeding 
degrees. While soft, press it into a thin sheet, and if, 
when thoroughly cold and still under water, it can be 
made to crack by a sudden wrench of the thumb and 
finger, the degree is reached. 

Medium Crack. — Test as before. When this 
degree is reached, the syrup when cold will crack 
easily, but when placed in the mouth will become 
''gummy." 

Hard Crack. — When this degree is reached, the 
syrup — tested as before — will crack sharp and easily, 



MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. 25 

and when tested with the teeth will remain brittle and 
not beeome "gummy 11 from the warmth of the 
mouth. From the Medium to the Hard Crack the 
test with the teeth is very efficient, detecting all of 
the different shades between the two degrees. 

The Caramel will be indicated bv the settling 
down of the bubbles on the surface, with an oily 
appearance. The sugar will "sizzle' 1 when the wet 
ringer is passed through it, and rapidly assume a rich 
golden hue. 

POINTS TO BE REMEMBERED. 

The workman, if he wishes to become proficient, 
will have to exercise his own judgment and not trust 
too blindly to formulas, the force of which will be 
better understood later. 

Acid is used in sugar to "break the grain 1 ' — that 
is, to retard or prevent granulation. If too little acid 
is used, the candy will be dry, or "grainy, 11 without 
lustre; if too much acid, the candy will be dark in 
color and sticky. This applies especially to hard- 
boiled goods. The quantity of acid needed will vary 
under varied conditions. Thus, some sugars are 
stronger than others; again, if by reason of a very 
slow lire or too much water, the boiling is prolonged 
to an unusual length of time, a less quantity of acid 
would be needed. The quality of the water used as 

4 



26 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

a solvent is also to be considered. Hard water, with 
lime in solution, will need more acid than soft water, 
from the faet that the lime neutralizes the aeid in a 
measure. Very hard water is unfit for candy-making. 
Some other points to be remembered in order to 
save time and endless repitition hereafter, are: Unless 
otherwise mentioned, it requires one quart of water 
to every six pounds of sugar, unless the batch is 
twenty or more pounds, when a less proportion will 
do. This rule is for first-class, dry A sugar. Moist, 
soft-grained sugar will require less. A large batch 
will require less acid in proportion than a small one, 
for the reason that it requires a longer time to evapo- 
rate, which increases the effect of the acid on the 
sugar. Cream of Tartar can be added to the batch, 
dry, if done before the batch is placed on the fire, as 
it always should be; if neglected until the batch is 
heated, it must be dissolved in a little cold water". 
When a batch is first placed on the fire, it must be 
stirred until partially dissolved, otherwise the sugar 
might scorch on the bottom of the pan. Have a 
brisk fire to insure rapid boiling. "Greasing," 
"breaking, 11 u cutting, 11 "killing 11 and "doctoring 11 are 
some of the terms used by the craft to express the 
use of cream of tartar with sugar. "Doctoring- 11 I 
believe is the most euphonious of the lot, and just as 
suggestive as "killing ^ or "cutting," and will adopt 
it for future use. Never allow a doctored batch, after 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 27 

coming to the boil, to remain long off the tire — for 
instance, during the dinner hour, — it will have the 
same effect as an overdose of acid. 

When a batch first comes to the boil, set off and 
skim off any impurities that may be on the surface, 
and, if needed, add fresh fuel to the fire, so as to 
secure an uninterrupted boiling to the finish. Cover 
the batch with the "steamerj" during the first half of 
the boiling process. The steamer is a cover of wood 
or metal, which rests on top of the pan, confining the 
steam, which dissolves the small grains or crystals 
liable to form on the sides, and which might act as a 
leaven to grain the whole batch. After taking off 
the steamer, wash the sides of the pan above the 
syrup with a wet sponge or cloth. All hard-boiled 
goods have a tendency to absorb moisture, and will 
become sticky when exposed to a damp atmosphere, 
which can be prevented only by keeping in glass jars 
or tin boxes. Yet, if the goods are properly made, 
they will bear exposure in an ordinarily dry atmos- 
phere, especially in winter; on the other hand, grained 
work will expel moisture, and become hard and drv 
by exposure. 

The following recipes are all for small batches. If 
the workman wishes to enlarge them, the simple rule 
of multiplication will maintain the proportions. 

Use best confectioner^ A sugar. The Franklin 



28 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

Refining Company's Crystal A or Crown A are 
No. i. ^ 

Use the best quality of flavors — Essential oils pre- 
ferred. 



u 



TAFFIES," 

OK "CHEW CANDIES 



Of all the " boiled sugars," tarries require the least 
manipulation, and a minimum of skill and practice; 
consequently are good subjects for the beginner. 
There is no arbitrary rule for cooking -taffies — any- 
where from 258 to 280°. In winter the medium 
crack is about the thing, and if very cold a little 
lower, and vice versa. They can be made with or 
without glucose. I would advise the use of glucose — 
best quality, A convenient and clean way to handle 
glucose is to have a tin pail or can, to hold six to ten 
pounds, and an iron spoon to dip it out. Place the 
can on the scales. Say it weighs ten pounds; if you 
want two pounds dip out until in balances at eight 
pounds. 

VANILLA TAFFY. 

Six pounds sugar, two pounds glucose or eight 
pounds sugar, and a heaping teaspoon of cream tartar. 
If using glucose, dissolve sugar with right amount 



30 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

of water, then add glucose; cook to the medium 
crack and pour on slab which has been previously 
greased with fresh sweet lard; turn the edges in, and 
when stiff enough get the batch together in one lump 
and place on the end of the slab, or on another slab 
if you have it; cool it evenly by working and turning 
it up frequently; to "turnup" a batch, grasp it on 
opposite sides about the center, lift it up and let it 
double up, the under side coming together; when 
cold enough to pull, place on the hook, flavor with ex- 
tract of vanilla and pull until snowy white and stiff, 
then take to the candy table and stretch out into 
flat bars, or. can be made into a solid lump and put 
into a pan, to be broken up when cold or run through 
a small motto machine, the rollers set very loose, and 
placed in pans. 

LEMON TAFFY. 

Same as vanilla, except color yellow and flavor 
with oil of lemon. 

STRAWBERRY TAFFY. 

Same as vanilla, except color red on slab and flavor 
with strawberry. To color the batch take a pound 
or two from one end of batch soon after pouring on 
slab, and on it daub a little red paste, about half a 
teaspoonful or less, fold and knead it until thoroughly 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 3 1 

mixed, then add it to the batch; when pulled it will be 
pink. The batch can be colored in the pan with liquid 
red, but that would necessitate the steaming and clean- 
ing of the pan for the next batch. 

PINEAPPLE TAFFY. 

Same as vanilla, except color one-third of the 
batch red; keep the red warm; cool the balance and 
pull white, flavoring with pineapple; get the white 
into mellon shape; spread the red into a wide, thin 
sheet, and with it cover the white entirely; finish as 
for vanilla. 

CHOCOLATE TAFFY. 

Same as vanilla; when on the slab add five or six 
ounces shaved chocolate; throw the batch together 
and work until chocolate is thoroughly mixed; the 
heat of the batch will melt the chocolate; pull on 
hook and flavor with vanilla. After the chocolate is 
mixed, if you wish you can reserve a portion of the 
batch clear to stripe the pulled portion. 

MOLASSES TAFFY. 

There are various ways of making molasses candy. 
The usual mode is a combination of sugar, glucose 
and molasses — about thus: Six pounds sugar, two 
pounds glucose and one quart molasses, half a pound 



32 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

of butter. To make molasses candy par excellence, 
take one or two pounds of white sugar, dissolve, and 
when boiling add by degrees one gallon of best, pure 
N. O. molasses; slow lire; boil to medium crack or 
higher, according to weather. If the molasses is of 
first quality it will reach this degree without loss of 
flavor or color. Flavor or not, as desired, and pull 
vigorously on hook until quite stiff; finish as for other 
tarries. 

TAFFY DROPS. 

Ten pounds sugar, small spoon cream tartar; dis- 
solve sugar, and when boiling add sufficient N. O. 
molasses to color the batch a bright yellow; cook to 
a strong hard crack; set off, and shave about one 
pound of butter into the batch; replace on fire a mo- 
ment and remove again, shaking the pan with a rapid 
circular motion ; repeat this until the butter is thor- 
oughly incorporated with the sugar; it can be mixed 
by gently stirring with a wooden paddle, but as there 
is some danger of graining the batch (shaking is the 
safest in all cases where it answers the purpose ) ; pour 
on the slab; flavor with extract mace or nutmeg; turn 
up and cool ; this is not to be pulled ; when cold enough 
run through a small motto machine, or cut into suita- 
ble sized lumps with shears. 



CARAMELS 



Caramels have become one of the most important 
staples in the retailer's trade. Humanity in general, 
without regard to age or sex, seem to have a weakness 
for them — that is, good caramels — and one who makes 
a really first-class article has taken a long stride on the 
direct road to success. One of the greatest difficulties 
to overcome in making caramels is to have them soft 
and yet maintain their shape without flattening out. 
To meet this end many different materials are used, 
such as paratine, suet, gelatine, etc., but which are 
only partially successful. There is but one way of 
making the " only best on earth, 11 and the following 
is the formula, or very near to it: 



VANILLA CARAMELS. 

Four pounds sugar, two pounds glucose, three 
pints sweet rich cream, two cans condensed milk 
( Eagle or Osprey brand) and three ounces of paratine. 
Mix the condensed milk with the cream to an even 
consistency, rejecting any hard lumps that may be in 

5 



34 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

it; add this to the sugar; place on tire, stirring con- 
stantly; when it comes to the boil set off, unless you 
have .an assistant to continue the stirring; add the 
glucose and pararine; replace on tire and cook to the 
soft crack; flavor with vanilla just before taking off 
the fire; pour on slab between iron bars; have the 
proper space to hold the batch, allowing it to be one- 
half inch or more thick. When pouring on slab con- 
siderable of this mass will adhere to the pan, which 
must be taken out with a large thin-bladed spatula 
and placed on slab separate from the main batch, the 
edges straightened, and flattened to the proper thick- 
ness; when cold — and not before— mark with the car- 
amel cutter, and cut up with a caramel knife or large 
thin-bladed butcher knife, with a sliding motion back 
and forth; have a smooth pine board an inch or more 
thick, and large enough to hold the batch or a portion 
of it, to cut on; cut the batch into three or four sec- 
tions, then cut a section into strips, and the strips, 
three or four at a time, into squares. 

Caramels should be cooked with great care over a 
slow or moderate fire — as they are quite liable to 
scorch — and stirred continually from commencement 
to finish. A paddle should be made expressly for 
this use, of one-half or three-eights inch stuff (poplar 
best), long handle, with a short blade at least live 
inches wide, the point of the blade thinned down and 
slightly rounded, to conform to the shape of the bot- 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 35 

torn of the pan. When stirring keep the point of the 
paddle on the bottom of the pan, and stir with a kind 
of sculling motion, from side to side, turning the pad- 
dle half over at each motion. When you quit stir- 
ring and take a batch off the tire, do it quickly, to 
avoid the possibility of scorching; place it on the pan 
rest, clean the paddle by pushing it over the opposite 
edge of the pan, and pour out without delay. A car- 
amel just as good can be made without the condensed 
milk, using live pints of cream instead of three, and 
otherwise the same formula. The solid matter of the 
cream after evaporation — about three pounds to the 
gallon — is what holds the caramels in shape, besides 
enriching them. The pararine adds to the "chewing" 
qualities, but can be left out with little detriment 
otherwise. 

LEMON CARAMELS. 

Same as vanilla, except flavor with lemon. 

MAPLE CARAMELS. 

Same as vanilla, except use half maple and half 
white sugar; no flavor. 

STRAWBERRY CARAMELS. 

Same as vanilla, except color red in pan and flavor 
with strawberry. . 



36 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

CHOCALATE CARAMELS. 

Same as vanilla. When everything is added and 
batch on fire, put in it seven or eight ounces of choco- 
late in one or two pieces — don^ break it smaller — 
cook carefully, as the chocolate is more liable to scorch 
than other kinds; flavor with vanilla. When "choc- 
olate" is mentioned it always means unsweetened 
chocolate, or cocoa paste, unless otherwise ordered. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM CARAMELS. 

Same as chocolate. Pour as thin as possible on 
slab; have some rather stiff fondant worked smooth; 
make it into a thin sheet, and cover half of the batch 
with it ; lap the other half of batch over the fondant ; 
press all down evenly; mark and cut as before. 

COCOANUT CARAMELS. 

Same as vanilla. When the batch reaches the 
soft ball add one fresh grated cocoanut; cook to soft 
crack. 

ENGLISH WALNUT CARAMELS. 

Same as vanilla. When done add a half pound or 
more nuts chopped, not too fine; give a stir or two to 
mix and take off; any kind of nuts can be used in the 
same manner; no flavor. 



MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. 37 

PULLED CARAMELS. 

Three pound sugar; three pounds glucose, and 
four pints sweet cream; cook to the soft crack; pour 
thin on slab; when cold enough pull on hook as white 
as possible, flavoring with vanilla; then form it into a 
sheet the desired thickness on slab; roll the top even 
with rolling-pin; mark and cut as before. 

OPERA CARAMELS. 

These caramels — so called — are not good "keep- 
ers, 11 and should be made in small quantities. 

VANILLA. 

Take five pounds sugar and a half gallon sweet 
cream; when it comes to the boil add a half teaspoon 
cream tartar, dissolved in a little water; this rule must 
be observed in all cases where cream tartar is used 
with sweet cream; cook to the soft ball, stirring con- 
tinually; pour on a clean slab, and when cold cream 
it as for fondant, adding extract vanilla during the 
process; when set knead it into a smooth mass; then 
form into a sheet the required thickness between bars 
on the slab, and on wax paper; level with the rolling- 
pin and mark with caramel cutter; cut into strips four 
squares wide and place in pans. 



38 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER 



MAPLE. 

Same as vanilla, except use half maple sugar and 
a little less doctoring; no flavor. 

CHOCOLATE. 

Same as vanilla; add half a pound of chocolate 
when it commences to boil. 

Other varieties can be made with different flavors 
and colors. 

Caramels proper can be made without glucose. 
Thus: Six pounds sugar, Ave pints sweet cream, one 
heaping teaspoon cream tartar, three ounces paraflne. 
When sugar and cream comes to the boil add the par- 
aflne and the cream tartar dissolved in water; a brisk 
tire can be used with this formula. 



STICK CANDY. 



The manufacture of stiek candy has fallen from 
its old time high estate. In fact, has become to be 
regarded as the plebian part of the confectioner's art, 
and the average quality of the tons and tons turned 
out annually in the United States would seem to war- 
rant the conclusion. If the retailer who wants to 
make his own stick candy aspires to make merely as 
good, and no better than can be had from the average 
wholesaler, he had better not attempt its manufacture, 
for he can really buy cheaper than he can make it on 
a small scale. But if he can and will make it in its 
perfection, he will be agreeably surprised at the in- 
crease of sales, and to a class of customers, too, who 
do not buy it from motives of economy. 

To become proficient, however, will require con- 
siderable practice, and the exercise of good judgment 
and taste; and, if not at first successful, the novice 
can take to heart the lesson afforded by the persever- 
ance of the traditional spider. Although advocating 
the use of glucose in low cooked goods, as caramels, 
etc., I hold a contra position in regard to its use in 



4_0 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

hard boiled goods. To make a first-class article of 
stick candy the following rules must be observed : 
Use the best quality of sugar and flavors, the right 
amount of water and cream tartar; boil on a quick 
tire; cook (in winter) just to hard crack; try with the 
teeth, and when it will "bite" crisp without wadding, 
pour on slab — in warm weather it should be boiled 
just a little higher — cool the batch evenly by turning- 
it up frequently, especially if on a cold slab; if allowed 
to remain in one position too long it will become 
lumpy and spin unevenly; get the batch as cold as can 
be worked conveniently before placing on the tabic 
to spin; the object of working cold is to retain the 
gloss and delicate crispness of the candy. 

LEMON STICK. 

Ten pounds sugar; add a teaspoon level full of 
cream tartar, and nearly two quarts water; dissolve 
and skim; cook a little above the hard crack and pour 
on slab; turn in the edge of the batch, which is the 
first to cool; when cool enough scatter sufficient oil of 
lemon over the batch to flavor it ; then throw the sides 
and ends of the batch to the center; run the batch 
knife under the mass and lift it suddenly, bringing 
that part next to the slab together; remove to one end 
of the slab and cool off; when nearly cold enough to 
spin, take about a half pound of the batch and pull it 
Aery white on hook for striping — a ten-penny nail 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 41 

driven in some convenient place will answer for a 
stripe hook — keep the white warm before the heater 
until wanted; place the batch on table and roll it into 
a smooth mellon-shaped form; take about one-third of 
the white, make it into a roll and divide into three 
equal parts; lay these one at a time on the batch from 
end to end, about one and a half inches apart at mid- 
dle of batch, coming closer together at the ends; take 
the remaining white, stretch and double up until you 
form a flat strip about three inches wide; place this 
on batch directly opposite the three stripes; warm one 
end of the batch and work it to a point, and proceed 
to spin, which is done, not by grasping the candy 
tightly and pulling it out by main force, but with a 
light pressure, allowing the hand to slide along the 
stick — coaxing it, so to speak — twisting and rolling 
on the table with the flat of the hand; while spinning 
the batch should be turned frequently, not only to 
keep it round, but to maintain an equal temperature 
in all parts; if one side of the batch should be warm, 
and the other side cold, the result would be a " cork- 
screw " stick; a buckskin glove should be used on the 
right or spinning hand, and on both if desired; an 
assistant is needed to help twist and roll the candy. 
To cut into sticks run the point of the shears under 
the stick and bring the upper blade down with a quick, 
free motion, holding the shears loosely. 



42 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

PEPPERMINT STICK. 

Same as for lemon; cook to the hard crack, when 
you turn in the edges; take about one-half or three- 
quarters of a pound from the batch and work in it 
sufficient cochineal paste to make it a rich, bright red; 
work it by kneading and folding until thoroughly 
mixed ; this should be kept warm and of even temper- 
ature until needed; when cold enough place the batch 
on hook and flavor; pull vigorously until very white 
and quite stiff, give it a few twists and remove to the 
table, flatten it, turn over and roll it up tightly, form 
into a smooth mellon shape; make the red into a roll 
and stretch out, divide it into two equal lengths, 
divide each of these into three equal lengths, making 
six in all; now place one of the strips on the batch 
lengthwise and one on each side of the first about one 
and a half inches apart ; turn the batch over and place 
the other three stripes directly opposite, making two 
groups of three stripes each; spin and finish as for 
lemon. 

The instructions for making the lemon and pep- 
permint will answer for all other stick candies, with 
the exception of striping and flavoring, for which 
there is no particular rule. 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 



43 



The following combinations will make a handsome 
assortment — lemon and peppermint as before directed: 

WINTERGREEN STICK. 

White, pulled body; one broad red stripe, cover- 
ing nearly half the batch; very large stripes or cover- 
ings for batch; should not be colored as deep as for 
ordinary stripes. 

CINNAMON STICK. 

Pink, pulled body; two groups of three red tripes, 
same as peppermint; make double the quantity of red; 
when the batch is ready for the hook put half of the 
red with it, reserving the remainder for the stripes. 

SASSAFRAS STICK. 

White, pulled body ; one wide pink stripe, bordered 
with red, covering nearly half the batch; make the 
same amount of red as for peppermint; take one-third 
of red and add to it three times the quantity of clear 
or white; pull on stripe hook to a bright pink, then 
spread into a broad, flat strip; make the red into a 
roll, divide in two equal parts, and place one on each 
edge of the pink lengthwise, then place on the batch. 



44 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

CLOVE STICK. 

White, pulled body, covered with red; two groups 
of three white stripes opposite, or one medium broad 
white stripe and three small ones opposite; color 
about one-third of the batch red, not quite so deep as 
for stripes; pull the remainder of batch white, and 
take from it sufficient for the stripes; spread the red 
evenly and large enough to cover the batch; stripe 
and spin. The best way to spread coverings or large 
stripes evenly is having it of uniform temperature; 
make into a roll, stretch out and double up; stretch 
and double again, bringing the ends even and edges 
together; repeat until of the size wanted; rub the 
creases down with the glove. 

CREAM STICK. 

White, pulled body; no stripes; vanilla,- or any 
flavor desired. If you wish you can make a little 
red, and when the batch is pulled white, take a little 
from it, form into a roll, and cover it with the red; 
flatten the batch and roll the red into the center and 
spin; this will show a small red circle on end of each 
stick. If a star is wanted, proceed thus: Make the 
same quantity of red as for peppermint; when the 
batch is pulled white, take from it three times as 
much as the red. Reserve about one-fifth of the red, 
and spread the remainder into a thin, flat strip, about 



•TftE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 45 

two "inches wide and two feet long. Spread the white 
piece to the same size as red, except thicker, and place 
it on the red, making it adhere. Divide this into live 
equal lengths. Place the strips flat side together, red 
and white alternately, edge up. Nowlay the reserved 
piece of red, formed in a round fiul^on the strips 
lengthwise. Roll the strips around it so as to inclose 
the red roll in the center, then roll this into the center 
of the batch. 

BARBER POLES. 

Can be striped and flavored to suit the fancy, and 
spun into large rolls. 

SMALL PEPPERMINT KISSES. 

Same as peppermint stick, except stripe evenly 
with a dozen stripes, and run through a sour-drop ma- 
chine. 

LARGE PEPPERMINT KISSES. 

Same as before, striped to suit the fancy, cut into 
lumps with shears and flattened with the thumb or 
with a board. 

BOSTON CHIPS. 

Five pounds sugar, half a teaspoon cream tartar, 
one quart water. When dissolved add one gill N. O. 
molasses. Cook to hard crack, pull on hook to bright 



46 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

straw col or, work rather warm, keep the batch glossy 
by rubbing with glove while on table, pull out into 
thin strips and run through a flake machine, set close, 
and about one inch wide. Let an assistant take it 
from the machine, and, while warm, cut into sticks 
with a caromel cutter. If run very thin the operation 
will require some practice and the exercise of consid- 
erable patience. 



FLAKE CANDY, 



VANILLA. 

Five pounds sugar, half a teaspoon cream tartar, 
one quart water. Cook to hard crack. Pull white. 
Run through the flake machine as for Boston chips. 

LEMON. 

Same as vanilla. Color, yellow. Flavor, lemon. 
Pulled. 

CINNAMON. 

Same. Color, red. Flavor, cinnamon. Pulled. 

BUTTER SCOTCH. 

Eight pounds sugar, one heaping teaspoon cream 
tartar or three pounds glucose, one pint N. O. mo- 
lasses. Cook a little above the medium crack (270°), 
set off and add a half or three-quarters of a pound of 
butter in small pieces. Set on fire a moment and 
shake or stir, adding a few drops of oil of lemon. 
When thoroughly mixed pour on slab, and when cold 
enough mark into squares or oblong pieces. 



48 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

BABY CANDY. 

Ten pounds sugar, half a spoon cream tartar. 
Cook just to the hard crack, or a trifle below. Flavor 
lightly with peppermint, and pull very white and stiff 
on hook. Run through a small motto machine, or cut 
into small lumps with the shears. When cold place 
on large wooden trays and allow them to remain until 
granulated, or partly so, which may require one or 
several days, then place them in covered jars or air- 
tight tin boxes, when they will soon become soft and 
creamy. The philosophy of this treatment is: That 
the moisture expelled from the granulating candy is 
confined with it, keeping it moist and soft, whereas, 
if allowed to escape, the candy would beeome .dry 
and hard. Its solvent qualities, and little liability to 
choke the baby, probably suggested its name. An- 
other kind is made light pink and flavored with cinna- 
mon. A vanilla cream can be made in same manner, 
except pulling out into flat sticks or bars, and cutting 
into suitable lengths. 

Stick candy can be made showing letters, flags, 
flowers and other devices in the cut ends. These re- 
quire a practical knowledge and large experience to 
produce. Theory will not answer, and as it is almost 
impossible to give written instructions that would be 
understood by the novice, I will omit them. 



MACHINE DROPS 



SOUR OR LEMON DROPS. 

Ten pounds sugar; teaspoon even full cream tartar. 
Cook to hard crack strong and pour on slab. When 
you have turned in the edges scatter over the batch 
one and a half ounces Tartaric acid, ground line. 
Add sufficient oil of lemon to flavor. Throw the 
batch together and mix thoroughly. When cold 
enough run through the drop machine. If you have 
no machine proceed in this manner: When the acid is 
thoroughly mixed place the batch on one corner of 
the slab. With the shears cut off enough to make a 
couple of strips as large around as the little ringer 
and nearly the length of the slab. Run the caramel 
cutter over the strips, cutting them nearly through. 
Push them to the back part of the slab, and repeat 
until finished. This must all be done quickly, the 
batch turned often and kept on the same spot on slab 
in order to retain the heat as long as possible. Lemon 
drops worked in tnis manner are very clear and bril- 
liant on account of a minimum of handling. 



50 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

ORANGE DROPS. 

Same as lemon, except use one-third less tartaric 
acid, flavor with oil of orange and color orange on 
slab. 

STRAWBERRY DROPS. 

Same as orange, except flavor and color red. 

LIME DROPS OR TABLETS. 

Same as orange, except flavor with oil of Lime 
and color a very light tint of green. 

TAR DROPS. 

Sugar and cream tartar as for lemon. Cook to 
hard crack strong. When the batch is ready to throw 
together — on slab — add one teaspoon of pine tar, and 
mix thoroughly. A little aromatic flavoring of some 
kind will make the drops more palatable. 

FLAT DROPS OR SQUARES. 

This line of goods must be flavored, and colored 
if needed, in the pan, poured on to the slab between 
iron bars, with space just sufficient to hold the batch, 
and of the proper thickness. When the batch is just 
cold enough to not run together where marked, with 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 5 1 

a caramel cutter cut both ways to form squares. Cut 
as nearly through as you can conveniently. Loosen 
the candy from the slab by carefully running a spatula 
or batch knife under it. When cold break up. 

HOARHOUND. 

Steep or simmer four ounces of hoarhound herb 
in about three pints of water for twenty minutes or 
more. Strain the liquor through coarse muslin. Put 
a pint of cold water to the herb, and press it dry. 
Strain this liquor with the first, and add to it ten 
pounds sugar and half a teaspoon of cream tartar. If 
needed add more water to the sugar. When it comes 
to the boil set it off a few moments. Skim all the 
scum and impurities off the top and replace on fire. 
Cook a little above the hard crack and pour on slab. 
Remove the bars in a few moments, as the edges in 
contact with the iron harden very soon. When cold 
enough cut both ways for squares. If sticks are 
wanted cut one way, and mark with an iron bar 
(corner) the length of the sticks. 

Boneset herb can be made into candy in the same 
manner. Part scraps (dissolved) can be used in hoar- 
hound or boneset candy. 

ICELAND MOSS DROPS. 

Four ounces Iceland moss, treated same as hoar- 
hound. Add the liquor — and water if needed — to ten 
pounds sugar. Small teaspoon cream tartar. When 



52 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

cooked to a crack add sufficient liquid carmine to color 
a deep red. When cooked to the hard crack add oil 
of anise to flavor highly. Set off and give the pan a 
few shakes and pour on slab. Finish as before. As 
usually made the Iceland moss is left out; otherwise, 
same as above. 

WILD CHERRY. 

Ten pounds sugar, small teaspoon cream tartar, 
color a light reddish tint with carmine. Cook to the 
hard crack strong. Set off and add two or three 
teaspoons of extract of wild cherry. Shake and place 
on Are. Remove as soon as it commences to boil. 
Pour on slab and finish as before. 

BARLEY SUGAR DROPS. 

Ten pounds sugar, small .teaspoon cream tartar. 
Cook to the hard crack strong. Set off and Wlour 
or five ounces sweet butter, in small pieces, and a lit- 
tle oil of lemon. Shake the pan and place on the lire 
a moment. Remove and shake again, and *£-the but- 
ter is thoroughly incorporated with the sugar pour on 
slab and finish as before. 



NUT CANDIES. 



PEANUT BAR. 

Six pounds sugar, scant half a teaspoon cream tar- 
tar. Cook well above the hard crack. Set off, close 
the damper and deaden the fire with ashes or a little 
fresh coke. Replace batch on fire. Now scatter pea- 
nuts over the batch, stirring gently with a small pad- 
dle, until all the nuts are in — two or three pounds — 
and mix with sugar. Then pour on to slab be- 
tween bars, and when just cold enough not to run, cut 
into bars with a butcher knife and mallet. Cut on a 
board, so as not to nick the slab. The peanuts should 
first be prepared by roasting to a very light brown, 
and then removing the skins by rubbing in a coarse 
sieve. 

ALMOND BAR. 

Same as for peanut. The almonds should be first 
dusted and freed from shell and other rubbish. They 
may be added to the batch whole or coarsely chopped. 
The nuts will mix more readily with the batch if they 
have been first well warmed. 



54 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

Another way to make nut candies is to place the 
nuts on slab and pour the batch, cooked to a hard 
crack, over them. When cold enough fold together 
and work the nuts through evenly. Then shape be- 
tween bars and roll down with rolling pin. Cut into 
bars as before. 

BLANCHED ALMOND BAR. 

Same as for almond, except blanch the almonds a 
day before using, so that they may be dry. 

English walnuts, pecans, filberts, or any other 
nuts, can in the same manner be used in candy. 

TUTTI FRUTTI, OR FRUIT BAR. 

Same as for peanut. Use a mixture of different 
kinds of nuts, seeded raisins, rigs, dates, citron, or 
whatever kind of dried fruit you choose to use. 

BROWN NOUGAT. 

Put live pounds of A sugar, free from lumps, into 
a clean, dry pan; use no water whatever; have the fire 
well deadened with ashes, so as to give an even, gentle 
heat; place the sugar on the fire and stir with a long, 
two-handed, narrow paddle until the sugar is thor- 
oughly melted. With the palette knife scrape off 
any unmelted sugar that may adhere to the sides of 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 55 

the pan; and when all is melted add about two pounds 
of blanched almonds, chopped rather fine; pour on 
slab between bars, and cut into bars. This is the 
same as used for pyramids and other ornamental 
pieces. 

HICKORY NUT CHIPS OR GEMS. 

First : Take a half pound of hickory nut meats ; sift 
them to get out the minute particles of shells; pick 
over carefully, and grind them up fine — on the table 
or a biscuit board — with the caramel cutter; sift 
through a flour sieve. That which remains grind 
again, and continue until all is through the sieve. 
Take six pounds sugar; wet with a quart, or little 
more, of water; a teaspoon scant of cream tartar; 
cook just to the hard crack, a trifle under if anything; 
take off and pour out a little less than a pound, or 
enough to cover a space about the size of a dinner 
plate on slab; shut down the damper and deaden the 
fire a little with ashes, and set on the batch; add the 
ground nuts lightly and by degrees, gently stirring 
with a small paddle. When all is together and well 
mixed pour on slab. In the meantime an assistant 
must have taken care of the small portion first poured 
out, keeping it warm. Get the batch together as soon 
as cold enough ; knead it a little and get it cold enough 
for spinning as quick as possible. While your assist- 
ant does this pull the clear portion on the stripe hook 



$6 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

very white; spread this — before the heater — into a 
thin sheet, large enough to cover the batch; roll up 
the batch and cover neatly; spin out about the thick- 
ness of stick candy. As soon as all the batch has 
been spun, cut into short cuts or chips. Thus: Place 
a short iron bar on the table crosswise; with the left 
hand shove the stick (candy) over the bar from left to 
right, and with a butcher knife in the right hand strike 
the stick a light, quick blow, close to the right hand 
edge of the bar. This will take some practice to do 
well. Instead of finishing as above you can run 
through a tablet machine. If properly made this is 
one of the best of the nut candy family, and an uni- 
versal favorite, the finely ground nuts imparting a 
very decided flavor to the candy. 

BLACK WALNUT NOUGAT. 

Take two quarts of the best N. O. molasses, and 
cook over slow fire to the soft crack. Set off and add 
a teaspoon of salaratus rubbed fine; stir until mixed 
and the batch begins to puff, then add two or three 
pounds of black walnut meats, previously cleaned. 
When mixed pour on to slab. The candy adhering 
to the pan will have to be scraped out with the palette 
knife and added to the batch. Spread and turn over 
on the slab until hard enough to handle, then mould 
in a straight sided tin pan an inch and a half deep, 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 57 

which should be the thickness of the candy. A tin 
marshmallow box cut down will answer. The box, 
or pan, should be slightly greased with sweet lard. 
When cold, or nearly so, turn the batch out of the 
pan, cut it lengthwise through the middle, then cut 
slices off the end one-quarter or three-eighths of an 
inch thick. Use a sharp, thin-bladed, batch knife, and 
cut with a rapid, sawing motion. Wrap the sticks in 
wax paper. 

BUTTER CUPS. 

Take four pounds of stiff vanilla fondant, place 
before the table heater, on a sheet of tin; work and 
knead it until quite hot; dust the tin with lozenge 
sugar to prevent the fondant from sticking to it. In the 
meantime take five pounds sugar and a half teaspoon 
cream tartar; one quart water and one gill N. O. mo- 
lasses; cook to the hard crack and add six or eight 
ounces of butter; when mixed pour on slab; when 
cool enough to handle on table, spread into a sheet of 
even thickness, and large enough to cover the fondant ; 
place the fondant in a roll on the sheet lengthwise; 
fold up and close the ends and sides tight. Get the 
batch in shape, and warm before the heater until it 
will work nicely; spin about the thickness of stick 
candy and the length of table; cut off with shears. 
Let an assistant mark each stick while warm with a 



58 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

caramel cutter, cutting nearly through. When cold 
break them up. 

CHOCOLATE CUPS. 

Four pounds stiff vanilla fondant, treated as for 
butter cups. Cook five pounds sugar and a half tea- 
spoon cream tartar to the hard crack. When ready 
to turn up on slab scatter over batch six ounces of 
shaved chocolate. Fold up and work the chocolate 
evenly through. When cold enough cover the fon- 
dant and finish as for butter cups. Almond paste can 
be used for a centre; also any kind of nuts ground 
fine and worked into the fondant while heating. 
Covers and centers can be colored any tint to suit the 
fancy 

u Chew " centers can be made with equal parts of 
sugar and glucose, cooked to a hard ball and com- 
bined with grated cocoanut, or other nuts chopped up 
tine. The following is a nice "chew 11 center: 

TAFFY CUPS. 

Two quarts best N. O. molasses, cooked on slow 
tire to a soft crack. Pour on cold slab. When cold 
enough pull light on hook, and keep warm before the 
heater. In the meantime cook rive pounds sugar and 
a half teaspoon cream tartar to the hard crack. Pull 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 59 

very light and flavor with lemon. Cover the molasses 
with the white and finish as before. The molasses 
can be left clear and chopped up hickory nuts worked 
into it. The chew centers are more easily worked, 
and will keep longer than the fondant. 

CARAMEL OR GLAZED FRUITS 

Are simply fruits and nuts coated with clear sugar 
cooked to the hard crack. All kinds of dried fruits, 
whole or cut up, and small fresh fruits whole, can be 
used; also, oranges carefully peeled and divided as 
small as the natural divisions will allow of, being care- 
ful not to fraeture the thin film enveloping the divi- 
sions. These should be allowed to dry a day or two 
before dipping. Make small quantities, only enough 
for a few days, at a time, as the moisture of the fruits 
soon dissolves the coating of sugar, making them 
sticky and bad to handle. When fresh they are very 
showy, and adapted to table ornamentation, either 
built into pyramid or other forms, or arranged as- 
sorted, in nice fruit dishes, garnished tastefully with 
artificial green leaves. Cook the sugar in small quan- 
tities (three or four pounds) in a batch or lip pan. 
Same proportion of "doctoring" as for stick candy. 
Place the pan on a board, or several thicknesses of 
paper, on the slab; then throw the fruits or nuts into 
the sugar, one at a time; take them out with an old 



60 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

fashioned, two-tined iron fork, or a similar devise 
made of wire, and place on clean sheets of tin slightly 
greased. The best way to do the orange slices is to 
hold them between the thumb and ringer and dip one 
end half way or more, and when all dipped go over 
them again, dipping the uncovered ends. 



GRAINED WORK 



MINT DROPS. 

Six pounds sugar; a good pinch of cream tartar; 
dissolve and cook to a soft ball; pour a portion into a 
"dropper" or lip pan, about half full, and add a couple 
of tablespoons of pulverized sugar; with a small pad- 
dle rub on the sides and stir until it granulates to a 
whitish mass of the proper consistency; stir in a few 
drops of oil of peppermint; take the dropper in the 
left hand ; hold it over a sheet of tin ; dip it so that the 
syrup will run out of the lip, and cut or scrape it off 
into drops with a wire or knitting needle held in the 
right hand ; move the dropper back and forth over the 
tin as you cut off. When the dropper is emptied put 
in more syrup and repeat. This requires considerable 
practice to do well. Where large quantities are made, 
droppers with two, three and four lips are used, but 
one lip will afford sufficient diversion for a beginner. 
Another, and, I believe, a better way is to put six or 
eight pounds of sugar, free from lumps, into a clean 
pan, a good pinch of cream tartar and add water, a 



62 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

little at a time; mix thoroughly with a paddle until 
the sugar is just barely wet, stiff enough to lift up on 
the paddle; rill the dropper about half full of the wet 
sugar and set on lire. There should be a sheet-iron 
cover for the furnace, with a round hole in the center 
just large enough for the dropper to set in. Stir until 
dissolved. When it commences to boil set off and 
thicken with pulverized or granulated sugar; stir and 
mix well together; flavor and drop as before. One 
or two dozen sheets of tin will be needed. If properly 
made they will be ready to take off the tins a few 
minutes after being dropped. Take a sheet in both 
hands at the ends, and twist from corner to corner, 
and scrape off with a palette knife. 

FIG BAR. 

Cut up fine with shears two pounds of figs; cook 
four pounds sugar to a thread; add the figs; stir and 
cook to a large thread; set off and add a half pound 
powdered sugar; rub on sides of pan and stir into 
batch until granulated; pour on to sugared tins or 
slab, between bars; spread of even thickness with 
palette knife, and allow to stand for several hours be- 
fore cutting into bars. If you wish, when the batch 
is poured out, you can cover the top with melted fon- 
dant, either white or pink, flavored to suit, and spread 
evenly with the palette knife. 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 63 

COCOANUT CAKES. 

Take two or more fresh cocoanuts, shell them, and 
with a spokeshape eut off the dark skin. Divide them 
into five or six pieces and shred them with a coeoanut 
cutter. ^Take of sugar twice and one-fourth the 
weight of the coeoanut. Put sugar in a clean, bright 
pan, and wet quite thick with water, and the coeoanut 
milk if quite fresh and sweet; add a small pinch of 
cream tartar. When it comes to the boil set off and 
skim. Now cook over a brisk tire to a strong, hard 
ball ; set off and add the coeoanut ; mix and replace on 
tire; let remain until all is thoroughly mixed and 
heated through again, stirring all the time; set off; 
now try the batch. The moisture of the cocoanuts 
should have reduced the batch from the hard ball to 
a good thread, the degree required; if too low, boil 
until it reaches the degree. When done, set off and 
granulate the batch by rubbing the sugar on the sides 
of the pan, and working it into the body of the batch, 
and stirring vigorously until the whole is a whitish 
opaque mass; set the pan on the slab or table on a 
rest of some kind to hold it firm; with an iron spoon 
dip a portion out of the pan, and with an old-fashioned 
fork or a stick pufteh it off the spoon on to sheets of 
tin, and so continue until all is done. If two colors 
are wanted, use half the batch or more for white, and 
color the remainder red; or can be made chocolate 



6\ THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

by mixing in an ounce or so of shaved chocolate. 
Three colors can be made from one batch by first lay- 
ing out the white, then dividing the remainder, using 
a second pan; keep the last to be worked out in a 
warm place. 

COCOANUT BAR 

Is made the same as for cakes. When granulated, 
pour on to a slab, dusted with powdered sugar, or on 
sheets of tin arranged on the table with bars; level 
to an even thickness with palette knife, and let remain 
undisturbed for several hours, then cut into bars with 
a thin-bladed knife. 

BLACK CROOK. 

Three shreded cocoanuts; one quart of N. O. 
molasses; cook over a slow fire, and when half done 
add the cocoanuts; stir and cook to a hard ball; pour 
on to a cold, greased slab, cool it by turning and 
working until stiff enough to form into balls or cones, 
placed on greased tins, and left until thoroughly cold 
and hard. 

WHITE CROOKS OR HAY STACKS 

Can be made in the same manner, with equal parts of 
sugar and glucose, or three parts glucose to two parts 
of sugar, made thick with shreded cocoanut. 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 65 

JAPANESE COCOANUT. 

Three pounds sugar and a good pineh of cream 
tartar; dissolve and add three pounds glucose; place 
on moderate fire; when it boils add four pounds of 
grated cocoanut; cook to a hard ball, strong, stirring 
until done; pour on greased slab between bars, and 
spread to an uniform thickness. When cold cut into 
cubes or small sticks, and roll them in fine granulated 
sugar. 

Other varieties of cocoanut will be given under 
the head of Fondant, or Cream. 

CREAM ALMONDS. 

Take two or three pounds sugar, dissolve, and 
when boiling add two pounds selected almonds; stir 
and cook to soft crack; set off, and stir until granu- 
lated; then throw into a coarse sieve and shake off 
the loose sugar; have eight pounds sugar and a good 
pinch of cream tartar cooked to a soft ball in another 
pan; with a ladle or small dipper pour a little of the 
hot syrup over the almonds; tumble them over with 
a thin-bladed wooden paddle until dry; then more 
syrup, and repeat until the syrup is all or nearly all 
used. To finish, add a little cold water to the remain- 
ing syrup, wet the almonds with it and throw them 
into a wooden tray to dry; while grossing up the 
9 



66 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

syrup should be kept warm; the flavor can be added 
to the sugar just before taking off the Are. 

Another way is not to boil the almonds in sugar, 
but heat them over the Are in a coarse sieve ; then put 
them in a pan and charge them with the cooked syrup 
as before. 

BURNT ALMONDS. 

Two pounds selected almonds; dissolve two or 
three pounds sugar; when boiling add almonds, and 
cook over a slow fire to a soft crack, stirring all the 
time; set off; stir until the sugar granulates dry; 
throw them into a coarse sieve and shake off all the 
loose sugar. Put back into the pan about one pound 
of the sittings and water to dissolve; place on fire, 
scrape down the sugar on sides of pan, add sufficient 
red and burnt sugar to color; cook to the soft crack; 
set off; stir in a little extract of vanilla, then throw the 
almonds in and tumble them about with paddle until 
granulated; throw into the sieve and shake off the 
loose sugar; repeat this until coated to the size wanted; 
then throw them into a clean pan, and gloss them — 
while hot — with dissolved gum arabic; throw the 
gum over them and shake and tumble them about 
until all are wet; then throw them into a wooden tray 
and let stand in a warm situation until dry; about 
half an ounce of gum arabic, ground and dissolved in 
a gill of hot water, will be sufficient. A coating of 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 67 

thin shellac can be added after the gum is dry, if a 
brilliant sfloss is wanted. 



to J 



SALTED ALMONDS. 

Take nice selected almonds; blanch and roast 
them to a very light chestnut color; put them in a 
pan and wet them with dissolved gum arabic and 
sprinkle with fine table salt; spread on a tray to dry. 

ALMOND PASTE. 

Blanch two pounds almonds and let them lay in 
cold water a few hours; then drain, pound and rub 
them in a stone mortar to a smooth paste, adding a 
little orange-flower water during the process to pre- 
vent their oiling; then cookjsugar to the medium 
crack; set off, add the almonds, and stir vigorously 
and continually with a wooden paddle until cold ; keep 
in an earthen crock. This paste, worked in a variety 
of forms and colors, and ciystalized, is the Almond 
Paste Bon-Bons of commerce. 

TO BLANCH ALMONDS. 

Throw the almonds into boiling water; after a 
moment try them by rubbing between the thumb and 
finger; if the skins are easily detached they are done. 
Throw them into a sieve to drain off the hot water, 



68 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

then return them to the pan and cover with cold 
water to cool them, then into the sieve again to drain. 
Then proceed to remove the skins as before stated, or 
place a number of almonds between the folds of a 
coarse crash towel and rub. Unless for immediate 
use, the almonds, after blanching, should be spread on 
trays to dry. 

TO POP CORN. 

There is some science even in popping corn. 
Don't put the corn too close to a fierce fire at first. 
Heat it gradually until it swells, then hold it closer to 
the fire, and when it begins to pop give it all the heat 
you can; and if the corn be good, every grain will 
pop, white as snow, and so simultaneously as to 
almost resemble an explosion. 

POP-CORN BALLS. 

Commercial Corn-Balls and Bricks are stuck to- 
gether with a thin syrup, mostly glucose. To make 
real nice, for retailing, take, say a peck of popped 
corn, put it into a pan, then cook in a lip pan about 
one pound of sugar, with a good pinch of cream of 
tartar, to a very hard ball, or soft crack ; pour the hot 
syrup over the corn, and mix with a wooden paddle. 
Cover with a damp, warm cloth, and if you have no 
machine, make into balls with the hands, wetting them 
occasionally in water. 



MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. 69 

SUGAR-COATED POP-CORN. 

Cook a few pounds of white sugar, without " doc- 
toring," to the feather, or very soft ball, and place 
where it will keep warm, put a quantity of popped 
corn into a large coarse sieve, hold it over the lire 
until thoroughly warmed, then throw it into a large 
copper pan, and with a small dipper pour a little of 
the hot syrup over the corn. Stir with a thin paddle 
until the syrup granulates dry. Then add a little 
more syrup and granulate. Repeat until sufficiently 
coated — not too heavy. A little powdered sugar 
may be added with the first charge of syrup to induce 
granulation. To color pink add liquid carmine to the 
syrup on the lire just before it is done, and at the 
same time flavor can be added if desired. 



FONDANT. 



FONDANT OR CREAM 

Is the basis of all cream goods, " cast " or " hand- 
made." It is a grained sugar, but widely differing 
from the ordinary by being of exceedingly fine and 
impalpable grain, moist and plastic. This is due to 
granulating the sugar cold, a condition unfavorable to 
granulation. Cast goods are those made from fondant 
remelted and run into forms while hot. Hand-mades 
are worked into forms from the cold fondant without 
remelting. To give special instruction for each of 
the many forms into which fondant is made would re- 
quire a large volume, and would be unnecessary. A 
few recipes will be sufficient for the intelligent work- 
man who has acquired a fundamental knowledge of 
this branch. A cream scraper will be needed; it is a 
kind of metal spade, and can be procured from any 
confectioner's supply house; one can be made of 
wood; a very good one is an ordinary steel hoe, the 
wrist straightened out, the corners slightly rounded 
and the edge ground smooth to prevent scratching the 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. yi 

slab. The degree of cooking for fondant will vary 
somewhat according to the use required. 

FONDANT FOR DIPPING. 

Ten pounds sugar, half a teaspoon cream tartar; 
dissolve and cook to the blow; pour on a clean slab. 
When thoroughly cold scrape the batch together in a 
mass, and with the cream scraper work it back and 
forth until it granulates, which will be apparent from 
it first becoming very white, then short, and finally 
by setting or concreting into a rigid mass. It must 
then be kneaded into a soft, putty-like consistency, 
when it is ready for use. Kept in a crock, covered 
with damp cloths, it will keep indefinitely. 

FONDANT FOR CASTING. 

Same as for dipping, except cook to the feather. 

FONDANT FOR HAND-MADES. 

Ten pounds sugar and a small teaspoon cream 
tartar. Cook to a soft ball. If wanted very stiff, a 
little higher. This must be creamed before it gets 
entirely cold, as it would be too stiff to work con- 
veniently. Fondant can be worked in the pan if de- 
sired. Use half the amount of doctoring. When 
cooked, set off, and cover the syrup with a damp 



7 2 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 



muslin cloth. When the syrup is about cold remove 
the cloth, which will take up any grain or crystals 
that may have formed on the surface, then stir with a 
wooden paddle until granulated. Flavor can be added 
while creaming, either in the pan or on the slab. In 
melting fondant for dipping or casting, great care 
must be observed that it does not lose its creamy 
texture, which will happen if melted too far or hastily. 
It can be melted either with direct heat over a very 
slow fire, or by hot water in a jacket or double pan, 
stirring continually in either case. 

FOR DIPPING. 

Have your melted dipping cream in a jacket 
kettle surrounded with hot water. Throw in, one 
at a time, the articles (centers) to be dipped; lift 
them out with a fork or small wire ladle and drop 
them on clean sheets of tin. They will concrete in a 
few minntes and be ready for use. Almost anything 
the fancy can suggest can be used for centers; all 
kinds of nuts, dried and preserved fruits cut into suit- 
able sizes, small fresh fruits, whole, and balls of vari- 
ous colored and flavored fondant. The dipping cream 
can be given any flavor or color when melting. 

FOR CASTING. 

The fondant should be melted just sufficiently to 
run freely, flavored and colored if needed, poured into 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 73 

a confectioner's funnel and run into starch prints, the 
flow of the cream being regulated by a pointed stick 
fitting in the small end of the funnel and extending 
above the top. For casting in starch, have light 
wooden trays about fifteen inches wide, twenty-seven 
inches long and one inch deep. Fill the trays with 
dry starch and level the top off with a straight edged 
stick. The patterns or forms are made of plaster 
paris, and fastened with glue to the flat surface of a 
narrow board a little longer than the width of the 
tray. Press the forms into the starch gently and re- 
move carefully, so as not to disfigure or enlarge the 
impression. Then by means of the confectioner's 
funnel All the impressions with melted fondant, and 
when cold take them from the tray and free them 
thoroughly from starch by brushing in a sieve or by 
blowing with a pair of bellows. They are then ready 
for the crystal, or for covering if for chocolate cream 
drops. The fondant can be melted and poured into 
shallow tin pans, or in wooden trays lined with ma- 
nilla paper, two, three or more layers of different 
colors and flavors, and when cold turned out and cut 
into squares, oblongs or diamonds and crystalized. 
Pans in which fondant or any granulated sugars are 
poured should be clean but not greased. 



10 



WAFERS. 



MINT CREAM WAFERS. 

Melt a couple of pounds of casting fondant (or 
sufficient to nearly till your funnel); stir in two table- 
spoons powdered sugar; flavor with oil of peppermint 
and pour into funnel and drop on sheets of tin. Hold 
the funnel in the left hand and with the right hand 
open and close, alternately, the point of the funnel by 
means of the stick, making the drops about the size 
of a silver quarter. It will require some practice to 
make them of uniform size. They can be removed 
from the tins in the same manner as mint drops, but 
should be allowed a longer time to thoroughly set. 

VANILLA CREAM WAFERS. 

Treated in the same manner as for mint; flavor, 
vanilla. 

LEMOM CREAM WAFERS. 
Same; color yellow and flavor with oil of lemon. 



THE MODERN CONEECTIONER. 75 

WINTERGREEN CREAM WAFERS. 

Color, carmine; flavor, wintergreen. 

CINNAMON CREAM WAFERS. 

Color, orange. 

PISTACHE CREAM WAFERS. 

Color green and flavor with extract Pistache, or 
two or three drops oil of almonds, and same of extract 
pine apple. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM WAFERS. 

When melting, add sufficient finely shaved choco- 
late to color, and flavor with vanilla. The color of 
these goods should be very delicate tints, and mixed 
while melting; the flavor being stirred in just before 
pouring into the funnel. That portion of the fondant 
adhering to the funnel can be scraped out with the 
stick and returned to the pan, to be re-melted with 
the next batch, when of the same color. 



ICINGS. 



These goods are made in almost endless variety, 
limited only by the ingenuity of the workman. A few 
recipes will furnish all the information needed in this 
line. 

PLAIN ICINGS 

Are made by melting casting cream, flavoring, and 
coloring any desired shade, and pouring, about one- 
half, or three-fourths of an inch thick into a wooden 
tray, lined with manilla paper. After standing a few 
hours, turn out of the tray, remove paper, mark and 
cut into squares or oblongs, and crystalize. 

FANCY ICINGS 

Are made, of two or more layers of different colors 
and flavors. Example: Take any quantity of cast- 
ing cream, melt, color pink and flavor strawberry; 
pour into the tray, spread evenly over the bottom, 
then melt the same quantity of cream, leave white and 
flavor vanilla; pour over the first layer, again melt 
the same quantity, color green or chocolate, and 



MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. 77 

pour over the second layer. After standing a few 
hours, turn out of the tray, and and mark and cut as 
before. Any combination of colors and flavors can 
be used, or an)* kind of chopped nuts, dried or pre- 
served fruits can be mixed in the middle layer. 

CONSERVE ICINGS. 

Cook rive pounds of sugar and a small teaspoon 
cream of tartar to a soft ball; set off and mix in 
about one pound casting cream ; with a wooden pad- 
dle, stir and rub the syrup on the sides of the pan, 
until of a whitish, cloud)' appearance, then whip in 
the whites of two eggs beaten light; now mix in a 
pound or two of coarsely chopped hickory or English 
walnuts, pour into a paper-lined tray, and, when cold, 
cut into squares or bars and crystalize. 

CREAM FRUIT NOUGAT. 

Melt rive pounds casting cream, set off and stir in 
the whites of two eggs, beaten stiff; then stir in a 
pound or more of French fruits, cut up, and pour into 
a deep pan, bottom-lined with wax paper. Let stand 
twelve hours or more, turn out, and cut into squares 
or bars, and wrap in wax paper. 

FRUIT CAKE. 

Five pounds sugar, one quart sweet cream, a half 
teaspoon of cream tartar, dissolved in a little water, 



78 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

and added to the batch after it has reached the boil- 
ing point (a rule to be observed at all times where 
sweet cream is used as a solvent). Cook to a soft 
ball, stirring continually; pour on slab, and when 
cold, cream as per fondant. Then knead, and work 
into it, more or less, as desired, ground cinnamon, 
cloves, mace or nutmeg, preserved fruits, cleaned sul- 
tana raisins, slips of citron, etc. ; then mould into an 
oblong cake pan, and let remain for several hours; 
turn out, and either cut into slices as sold, or cut into 
pieces and wrap in wax paper, 

COCOANUT CREAM PASTE. 

Five pounds sugar, three pints sweet cream, half 
a teaspoon cream of tartar, two fresh-grated cocoa- 
nuts, added to batch when it commences to boil. 
Cook to a soft ball, stirring continually. When done, 
pour on slab and cream as before; mould in oblong 
pans and set aside for several hours. Vanilla flavor 
can be added if desired. 

MAPLE COCOANUT PASTE 

Is made the same as above, using half maple and half 
A sugar. 

CHOCOLATE COCOANUT PASTE. 

Same as first, adding four or live ounces chocolate 
when commencing to boil. 



HAND-MADES. 



A few examples will give the intelligent workman 
a good idea of the manner of working all goods in 
this line. The material used is the stiff, or high- 
cooked fondant, worked cold in the same manner as 
one would work bread dough, and if not stiff enough 
to suit the requirements, the finest of lozenge sugar is 
worked into it, until of the proper consistency. The 
original mass can be made white and unflavored, and 
the colors (in paste form) and flavors worked into por- 
tions of it, as required. For example, to make 

CRAB APPLES, 

Take a portion of the fondant and color yellow; a 
similar portion color red; another portion white; the 
same quantity of chocolate, which must be made a 
special fondant, as it requires heat to incorporate the 
chocolate ; form these into triangular strips, then form 
all into one round roll, with the thin edges to the cen- 
ter; roll out to about the size of the thumb, and with 
a thin-bladed knife, cut into pieces of even size, and 



80 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

roll between the hands into round balls; on the ends 
where the eolors meet, make indentations with a 
pointed , stick, or push a whole clove to the head in 
one end, to represent the blossom. 

ROLLS. 

Form two thin sheets of different colored fondant. 
Place one on top of the other. Then commence at 
one end or side and roll the mass into a solid, round 
roll. Cut into thin slices. A thin sheet of stiff jell}' 
may be placed on a sheet of white fondant and treated 
in the same manner. 

Another form of roll can be made of a combina- 
tion of three colors. Take a small quantity of one 
color and form it into a round roll. Take double 
the quantity of another color. Form into a sheet 
large enough to wrap around, and cover the first and 
a still larger quantity of another color formed into a 
sheet sufficiently large to cover the whole. Roll out 
to about the size of the thumb, and cut into lengths 
of a few inches. Roll these one at a time in simple 
syrup placed on a slab. Then roll them in colored 
sugar, or chopped, blanched almonds or desicated 
cocoanut of various colors. Lay aside until the syrup 
becomes sufficiently dry to cement the adhering nuts 
or sugar; then cut the rolls obliquely into slices half 
an inch or more thick. To color the chopped almonds 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 8 1 

or desicated cocoanut sift out the finest, put a portion 
of the remainder in a bowl, pour over it a little car- 
mine and stir with a wooden paddle until colored to 
suit; then spread out on a sheet of manilla paper to 
dry. Treat in the same manner for yellow and green. 
In this class of goods the effect of a combination of 
colors will depend largely on the good taste of the 
workman. 

CREAM DATES. 

Use only the nicest whole dates. Cut open one 
side from end to end with the shears. Remove the 
seed and press the date full of white vanilla fondant, 
or a combination of two colors (white and red); or a 
whole blanched almond can be inserted after removing 
the seed; the date closed and dipped into melted fon- 
dant, and when cold cut in two with a sharp knife. 
Figs, raisins and cherries, after removing the seeds, 
can be rilled with fondant, either white or colored. 
Clusters of large raisins, seeded, and left on the stem, 
filled with fondant of various colors, are very hand- 
some for decorative purposes. 

CREAM WALNUTS. 

Press the halves of an English walnut on either 
side of a ball of fondant. 

All cream goods, either cast or hand made, should 
be crystalized if to be kept any length of time. A 
11 



82 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

coating of perfect crystals is impervious to ordinary 
atmospheric influences, and forms a hermetic covering 
around the goods, preventing the escape of moisture, 
and keeping them soft and creamy for a long time. 
It also gives the goods a more brilliant appearance. 

Great care should be exercised in preparing the 
syrup, remembering that there is a wide difference 
between a "grain" and a crystal. The former being 
best produced by heat and agitation; the latter re- 
quiring absolute rest and a low or moderate tempera- 
ture. 

SYRUP FOR CRYSTALIZING. 

Take of the best sugar say twelve pounds; dis- 
solve with two quarts water; cook to 34° by the sach- 
arometer, or to 35 or 36 if a coarse crystal is need- 
ed; add a few drops of acetic acid and set off; cover 
the pan and let rest undisturbed until cool, then with 
a dipper carefully pour syrup over the goods which 
have been previously arranged in pans until all are 
covered; allow them to stand undisturbed ten or 
twelve hours in a room of moderate temperature; 
then make an opening near the corner of pan, in the 
crust formed on surface, and tip the pans, resting in a 
trough or other device; let drain until dry, the goods 
can then be turned out of the pan ready for use. 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 83 

FONDANT WITHOUT COOKING 

Can be prepared thus: Whip light the white of one 
egg; then add two or three tablespoonfuls of water; 
then add the finest lozenge sugar until of the proper 
consistency, working and kneading it as you would 
bread dough. Flavors and colors can be worked in 
during the process. Or, instead of water you can use 
fruit juices of any kind, and work in the same man- 
ner. These can be used for centers in dipped goods 
or for covering with chocolate. 



CHOCOLATE WORK, 



In the manufacture of all chocolate covered goods 
a chocolate warmer is indispensable. The warmer is 
a double or jacket pan, allowing the use of hot water 
instead of direct heat in melting chocolate. They 
can be had from any confectioner's supply house. Ex- 
cept for the very cheapest goods prepared or sweet- 
ened chocolate is most commonly used. Chocolate 
of various grades, prepared specially for covering, are 
now made by most of the chocolate manufacturers. 

To make sweet chocolate, add six or eight ounces 
of finest lozenge sugar to each pound of melted cocoa 
paste. Mix and beat well together. If vanilla flavor 
is wanted it must be added in the form of a dry pow- 
der, or vanilla sugar, as no liquid can be mixed with 
the chocolate. To thicken chocolate add more fine 
sugar; to thin it add cocoa butter. Parafine, suet and 
cotton seed oil are also used for thinning. In cover- 
ing creams with cocoa paste (unsweetened), with a 
wire ladle dip a number of the creams into the melted 
chocolate, and throw them on to the wire screen at- 
tached to the warmer, and allow the surplus chocolate 



MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. 85 

to drain off. Then, with a fork, remove them one at 
a time and place them on boards or trays, covered 
with manilla or wax paper. Allow to stand in a cool 
place until the chocolate hardens. In hot weather 
they should be placed in a refrigerator. The)' can 
then be removed from the papers and varnished. To 
varnish, put a number of the drops into a small sieve 
and apply the varnish with a small brush, rolling the 
drops around in the sieve so as to get all parts covered. 
Chocolate should never be heated to a high tempera- 
ture, as it is apt to cause rusty streaks or spots after 
hardening. Blood heat is about the right tempera- 
ture. Sweet chocolate for covering can be used by 
dipping, or in this manner: Have a small marble slab 
or slate tileing (one a foot square and one inch thick 
will do); keep it warm (not hot) enough to melt the 
chocolate. Put a portion of the chocolate from the 
warmer on the slab, and with the hand roll one, or a 
number, of the articles to be covered in the chocolate. 
Then pick them up, one at a time, arid drop them on 
papered trays by gently releasing them from the 
thumb and ringer, so as not to make a thin place in 
the covering. This mode is especially adapted to 
thick coverings in line goods. 



86 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS. 

HAND MADE. 

Take a piece of vanilla fondant. Roll it into a 
round strip the size needed. With a knife cut into 
lengths about equal the diameter. Roll these into 
round balls. Lay them on trays until sufficiently dry 
to hold their shape; then cover as before directed. 
Cast drops are covered in the same manner. 

WALNUT CHOCOLATE CREAMS 

Can be rolled out and cut, as hand mades, or by run- 
ning melted fondant into square impressions in starch, 
or pouring into pans the proper thickness, and when 
cold cut into squares with a knife. When covered 
and placed on papered trays, and while the chocolate 
is yet warm, place on top of each square an English 
walnut halve, pressing it firmly into the chocolate. 
All kinds of creams, roasted almonds, walnut halves, 
small pieces of brown nougat or white nougat, marsh- 
mallow drops, etc., etc., can be dipped in chocolate. 

VARNISH FOR CHOCOLATE. 

Take a quantity of gum shellac. Put in a glass 
jar that can be covered tightly. Cover the shellac 
with alcohol and let stand until dissolved. When 
using put a portion into a small vessel and thin with 
alcohol. If too thick it will make the chocolate too 
"shiny" and give them a cheap appearance. 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 87 

COLORED SUGAR (SUGAR SAND.) 

RED. 

Take a quantity of rather fine granulated sugar; 
put into a bright copper pan; heat over a covered fire 
until quite warm; set on the pan rest, and pour on the 
sugar a little liquid carmine; mix and rub with the 
hands until the color is evenly distributed; then a lit- 
tle more carmine, and so continue until the desired 
shade is acquired. Spread on papered trays, and 
when dry break up with the hands if lumpy. 

Yellow, blue and green sugars are prepared in 
the same manner. If the colors are in paste form, or 
too thick, thin them with alcohol. 



PART SECOND 



12 



ICE CREAM. 



REMARKS. 

There is no royal road to the production of good 
ice cream. Many presume that Jones — who has 
earned reputation and wealth by making an excellent 
article — employs some subtle and mysterious pro- 
cess, which, if they could only find out, would make 
them rich too. Now, the probabilities are that Jones' 
formula is very simple, and similar in proportions to 
that of his neighbors; the only mystery being in the 
exercise of care and common sense. To insure the 
best results intelligent and unremitting care must be 
given to every detail of the manufacture, from begin- 
ning to end. And the material must be of the best 
to begin with. Milk and cream are great absorbents, 
and are easily contaminated by surrounding unclean- 
liness and bad odors, consequently the surroundings 
and all utensils connected with the manufacture should 
be kept immaculately clean. Freezers and packing- 
cans should be thoroughly scalded and aired in the 
sun after using. The copper boiling pan should be 



92 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

clean and bright before using. If stained or discol- 
ored wash it with vinegar and salt and rinse with 
plenty of cold water and wipe dry. If very foul, 
wash the pan with soap and water before using salt 
and vinegar. 

Keep the freezers free from dents and bruises, so 
that the scraper may work smooth and close to the 
sides, and if the scraper is of wood renew it as often 
as the edge becomes blunted. This is important if 
you want your ice cream smooth. In boiling milk or 
cream by direct heat, if the bottom of the copper pan 
be thick and smooth, the sugar added before placing 
on fire, and ordinary care used, there is very little, if 
any, danger of scorching the material if fresh and 
sweet. 

Patent freezers*, " with latest improvements, " "ex- 
celling all others," etc. are very plentiful, and all have 
their admirers. For hand power I would recommend 
the Blatchley Horizontal Freezer, made in Philadel- 
phia. I have no personal interest in recommending 
this machine, any more than a desire to promote the 
best interests of my patrons. In my opinion the Hor- 
izontal has some good points over other machines. 
One in particular is the small amount of ice, and the 
uniformity of time (fifteen to eighteen minutes for a 
live-gallon freezer) required in freezing, without 
regard to atmospheric conditions. A result due to 



MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. 93 

the exclusion of air from the freezing mixture (salt 
and ice) by an air-tight cover to the tub. 

For a trade of ten to twenty gallons per day a 
five-gallon machine is large enough, with a two-gallon 
machine for ices and odd jobs. As a rule small 
freezers will make smoother cream than large ones. 
For pounding ice in, make an open box of two inch 
oak, six to eight inches high, length and. breadth to 
suit the requirements. For a maul, or pounder, take 
an eight inch square stick of maple, or other hard 
wood, about a foot long, and bore a hole in one end 
for a handle. For a Blatchly freezer pound the ice 
quite fine, fix the can in the tub and rill tub one-third 
full of ice, settle the ice down with a stick, and add 
one quart of common salt on top of ice — do'nt mix 
it. Another layer of ice to make tub two-thirds full. 
On this another quart of salt. Then fill tub with ice 
and another quart of salt on top, making three quarts 
of salt in all. Close the tub and get into position to 
freeze. (See directions, accompanying each ma- 
chine. ) An extra crank (not furnished with the 
machine), to slip on end of dasher back of the hasp, 
is a handy addition. An assistant can turn the dasher' 
one way while the tub is turning in the opposite direc- 
tion, thus doubling the beating facilities and doing 
away with the necessity of stopping the machine and 
moving the crank from one end of the tub to the 
other. Good cream can be nearly doubled by beating 



94 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

while freezing, but I would not recommend it. It is 
too "fluffy," and, although appearing all right when 
first frozen, soon becomes coarse, and if packed hard 
is dry and crumbly. An increase of one-fourth or 
less makes the cream sufficiently light. After the 
cream is frozen open tub, lift out the freezer, and put 
the cream into packers to harden. The sooner it is 
hardened the better, for if allowed to stand long in a 
sloppy condition it will become coarse and watery. 
For packing crush the ice rather fine; mix with the 
salt and pound it down solid around the can. It is a 
mistake to consider very coarse ice the most econom- 
ical for packing. The coarser the ice the more free 
the air circulates through the interstices. Coarse or 
solar salt is the best for packing, as it does not dis- 
solve so readily, and maintains its action longer than 
tine salt. Keep your cream well packed and solid. 
Do 1 nt neglect it until the cream melts on the sides of 
the can, for it will be sure to be rough and icy after 
repacking. To repack, draw off the water and use 
finely pounded ice and coarse salt mixed. Work this 
thoroughly into the old ice in the tub with a stout 
stick — a broom handle, sharpened at the small end, 
will do — and then pound down solid. If the cream 
has a tendency to keep soft use more salt; if too hard 
less salt. Ice cream, in plain form, once considered a 
luxury, has almost become an every da}' necessity. 
In catering to the trade the manufacturer must be 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 95 

guided in a measure by the particular wants of his 
customers. For parties, receptions and other society 
affairs the creams cannot be too rich, while for every 
day consumption very rich cream would tend to 
diminish the frequency of the demand by the average 
consumer. On the other hand, very poor and unpal- 
atable cream would have a bad effect on sales. The 
happy medium is what is wanted — a nice, refreshing 
dish of cream that will leave the impression with the 
consumer that he or she could enjoy another dish. I 
believe the following formula will till the bill if prop- 
erly made and of good materials. 

TO MAKE A FIVE-GALLON FREEZER FULL. 

Two gallons rich sweet milk; take of this milk 
about one and one-half pints, and dissolve it in four 
ounces of potato starch (corn starch will do); the 
remainder of the milk put into the boiling pan, and 
add two and one-half pounds crushed or granulated 
sugar, and set on the lire; stir frequently with the 
whisk; have sixteen eggs in a pan, and well beaten; 
when the milk comes to a boil, set off, and with a dip- 
per, pour about one-third of the hot milk on to the 
eggs, beating and stirring with the whisk continually ; 
now replace the milk on the fire and add the dissolved 
starch, stirring vigorously; when it again comes to 
the boil, add the eggs, but do not stop the stirring 
with the whisk firmly on the bottom of the pan. After 



g6 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

being on the tire a few moments, to thicken, not to 
boil, set off, and strain through a hair seive, or Swiss 
muslin, into a cooling can, and set in ice water, stir- 
ring until cold. Now add one and one-fourth pounds 
of powdered sugar to live quarts of rich cream; stir 
gently, and when the sugar is dissolved, strain, and 
add it to the custard and place all in the freezer; if 
for vanilla ice cream, add one ounce best vanilla 
extract, and freeze; if to be made into two or more 
different flavors, freeze without flavoring, and add the 
flavors to the cream in the packers, beating and mix- 
ing with a long-handled wooden paddle. Remember 
that the custard must be very cold before mixing it 
with sweet cream. The above formula answers for 
all staple creams, the only difference being in the 
flavors and colors. 

FOR LEMON, 

Use oil of lemon of the best quality, and fresh; don't 
flavor too high. 

FOR STRAWBERRY (IMITATION), 

Use extract of strawberry, and color with liquid 
carmine. 

CHOCOLATE. 

Take two ounces of cocoa paste, best quality, 
shave it line, and the same amount powdered sugar; 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 



97 



put them into a shallow stew-pan, with enough sweet 
milk to cover — less than a gill — , boil over a gentle 
lire, stirring continually, until melted into a smooth, 
satin-like paste; if too stiff, add more milk. This 
paste, when cold, can be worked into the cream after 
it has frozen, or before freezing, and will be sufficient 
for six quarts of ice cream. Flavor with vanilla. 

BISQUE. 

Grind and put through a line sieve, one poun 
crisp macaroons; mix this thoroughly into one § 
vanilla ice cream, and let stand an hour or two, to 
ripen. 

TUTTI FRUTTI. 

Mix into one gallon rich vanilla ice cream one and 
one-half pounds of glazed fruits, such as cherries, 
apricots, pineapples, etc.,' cut into small pieces; a little 
marachino, mixed in with the cut fruits, will prevent 
their sticking together, and heighten the flavor of the 
cream. 

FRUIT ICE CREAMS. 

Fruits cut up and mixed with ice cream do not 
impart their flavor to the ice cream, to any extent, 
and the fruit itself is tasteless and insipid when frozen. 
To get a nice flavor, treat in the following manner: 

13 



98 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

STRAWBERRY. 

Take sound, ripe strawberries, clean and mash 
them in an earthen vessel, press through a cheese 
cloth, leaving little but the seeds remaining; add 
sufficient powdered sugar to make quite sweet; set in 
ice box until very cold, then mix into frozen, but un- 
flavored cream. One quart of the juice will flavor six 
to eight quarts of ice cream; add a little carmine to 
color. Working in the fruit juice will thin the cream 
considerably, consequently, more salt than usual must 
be used in the first packing, to congeal the cream 
rapidly; cut it down from the sides every few minutes 
until it becomes solid again, then pack away as other 
creams. 

PEACH. 

Take ripe, high-flavored peaches, wwk them, if 
needed, but don't pare them; cut them up, rejecting 
the seeds, of course, and mash them thoroughly with 
sufficient powdered sugar to sweeten, then rub them 
through a perforated tin sieve; use in the same man- 
ner as for strawberry. Any kind of fruits or fruit 
juices can be used in ice cream. On account of the 
acidity of fruits, it is best to add them always after 
the cream has been frozen. 



MOULDED CREAM. 



NEAPOLITAN, OR HARLEQUIN ICE CREAMS, 

Are made by arranging different colors of ice cream 
in alternate layers, in brick-shaped moulds. 

For example: Take, say a two-quart brick mould, 
imbed it in fine ice, mixed with a little salt, leaving 
the top of the mould exposed; remove the lid care- 
fully, so as to get no ice or salt in the mould, put in it 
one pint of chocolate ice cream, spread evenly over 
the bottom of mould, and level with a straight-edged 
piece of tin; then in the same manner add a layer — 
one pint — of vanilla, then a layer of strawberry or 
pink cream, then rill up with vanilla, and scrape off 
with a palette knife, leaving the mould level full; 
replace the lid, take up the mould carefully and tie 
with a few rounds of string, to prevent the lid from 
becoming loose; then bury the mould in a strong- 
freezing mixture of tine ice and salt to harden, and let 
remain at least one hour before using. For moulding, 
the ice cream must not be hard, but about the same 
consistency as when first frozen. Any combination 



IOO THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

of colors, or water ices and creams to suit the fancy, 
can be used. All moulded creams are treated in the 
same manner, that is, the cream is first frozen in the 
ordinary way, then moulded and hardened by imbed- 
ding in salt and ice. To take cream out of the brick 
moulds, first take off the string, if tied, and dip the 
mould into cold water, to cleanse it from salt and ice, 
wipe clean with a dry cloth, remove one lid, place the 
mould on a suitable dish, open side down, remove the 
other lid, then lift the hoop. If the cream should not 
come out freely, dip a towel in hot water, wring it out 
and apply to the mould. 

PISTACHE CREAM. 

Blanch four ounces pistache nuts, or two ounces of 
pistache and two ounces of almonds, pound them in a 
stone mortar to a smooth paste, adding a little rose 
water to prevent their oiling; put one gallon fresh 
sweet cream and one and one-half pounds refined 
sugar into a boiling-pan, then break eight fresh eggs 
into an egg-pan and beat them well; now set on the 
fire the cream and sugar, and heat it to the boiling- 
point, stirring continually with the whisk; set off, and 
with a dipper, pour about one-third of the cream on 
to the eggs, beating them well together; pour the 
eggs back into the remaining cream and set on the 
fire a few moments to thicken, not to boil; take off 



MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. IOI 

and strain into a can; now dip out a little of the hot 
mixture and pour on the pistache paste in the mortar, 
and rub until smooth and evenly mixed, then add 
more, and rub until quite thin; then pour all back 
into the can, and cool in the usual manner. When 
ready to freeze, color in a light shade of green. 

NESSELRODE PUDDING GLACE. 

Pound to a smooth paste half a pound blanched 
almonds; take one gallon rich cream, and add to it 
one and three-fourths pounds refined sugar; break six- 
teen eggs in an egg pan and beat them well; now 
scald cream and mix with the eggs, and add the 
almond paste in the same way as for pistache cream ; 
when frozen, mix thoroughly in a half pound of glazed 
fruits, assorted and cut into small pieces, one wine 
glassful of cognac brandy and two of marachino; a 
portion of the liquor can be poured over the cut fruit 
in a bowl and mixed, to prevent their sticking together 
in lumps. This pudding is usually served in small, 
fancy cups, or stem glasses, with a dash of whipped 
cream on top, and a pinch of finely ground pistache 
nuts on the whipped cream. To mould in brick form, 
fill the mould (imbedded in salt and ice) nearly full 
of the pudding, level the surface and fill with whipped 
cream, and sprinkle the surface with the ground pis- 
tache nuts, then place a piece of wax paper on this, to 



102 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

prevent its adhering to the lid; finish as for other 
moulded creams. 

To whip cream, have it very cold, and beat to a 
stiff froth with a whisk; a little sugar dust and a few 
drops of vanilla can be mixed in after it is beaten. 



WATER ICES 



LEMON ICE (SHERBET). 

Put two quarts of water into an earthen erock, 
and add two and one-fourth pounds A sugar; grate 
into it the yellow rind of two lemons, stir with a 
wooden paddle, and when the sugar is dissolved, add 
the juiee of enough lemons to make a rich lemonade; 
strain into the freezer, and add the whites of three 
eggs, well beaten; freeze as for ice cream. If frozen 
without beating, it will be granular and semi-trans- 
parent, but if well beaten until quite stiff, will be firm, 
smooth and like ice cream. Two quarts of water 
will make four quarts of ice. On account of the 
acidity of water ices, they ought to be packed in por- 
celain-lined cans, and only enough made for the day's 
trade. 

ORANGE ICE. 

Grate the rind (only the thin yellow surface) of 
two oranges, and take the juice of enough more to 
make one pint, add three pints of water and two 
pounds sugar; when the sugar is dissolved, add suffi- 



104 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

cient lemon juice to make tart; strain and mix in the 
whites of two whipped eggs, and freeze as for lemon 
ice. Color a light orange tint, with yellow and red, 
before freezing. 

PINEAPPLE ICE. 

One pint pineapple juice, three pints water, and 
two pounds sugar; lemon juice, whites of two eggs, 
proceed as for orange. Any kind of fruits can be 
used, following the above formula, viz: One part 
fruit juice to three parts water; one pound sugar and 
white of one egg to each quart of liquid, and lemon 
juice to give the required acidity. Colors appropriate 
to the fruit used. 

ROMAN PUNCH. 

Make a rich lemonade of three pints water, one 
and three-fourths pounds sugar, lemon juice and eggs 
as for lemon ice, add one pint of brandy and Jamaica 
rum, half and half, and freeze as for other ices. 
Champagne, cordials and other liquors can be made 
into ices in the same manner. The above formulas 
are sufficient to give a good idea of the mode of pre- 
paring them. 

CHARLOTTE DE RUSSE. 

Can be made of custard, or a combination of 
custard and cream; but if you want a perfect speci- 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 105 

men of this delicate dish, make it of cream in the fol- 
lowing way: Break or cut up one ounce Cooper's 
sheet gelatine, soak it in a half pint of water for an 
hour, then dissolve in a hot water bath; put six 
ounces of tine, powdered sugar into a bowl with one 
whole egg^ and beat well with a wooden paddle, then 
add to it one teaspoonful best extract vanilla. Now 
put one quart of very rich sweet cream into the egg 
pan, keep cold, and if need be, set the pan on ice or 
in a pail of ice water; beat the cream with a whisk 
until quite stiff, then take the gelatine (see that it is 
all dissolved ) and cool it quick by immersing the tin 
in ice water, and stirring until just hike warm; now 
pour the gelatine on to the sugar and eggs, mixing 
well, and add this to the whipped cream, mixing thor- 
oughly with the whisk into a smooth mass; then fill 
the moulds, forms or cases previously prepared. A 
very handsome dish can be prepared with little trouble 
in this way. Take a nice dish of either glass or por- 
celain, any shape, flat or with stem, and line it with 
lady fingers, single, having the round ends projecting 
half an inch or so above top of the dish; fill with the 
russe not quite to the top of the lady fingers, heap up 
in the middle, round and smooth with the palette 
knife, saving enough of the russe to ornament with. 
Make a cornet of strong manilla paper, fill it about 
half full of the russe, cut off the point, leaving it 
about the circumference of a small straw; with this, 

14 



Io6 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

make large dots or hemispheres on the russe, back of 
each lady finger; then, with a cornet having a very 
small orifice, make a crimped or waved-line border 
around the base of the dots, on the inside, and over 
the tops of the lady ringers, on the outside; then, on 
top of the dish, make a bunch of grapes with two 
leaves. To make leaves, after rilling the cornet and 
closing the end, flatten the point, and with the shears 
cut both edges off to the point, commencing about 
one inch from the point; this allows the contents to 
escape from both sides of the cornet, the point mak- 
ing a depression, to resemble the stem of a leaf; an 
irregular movement of the hand giving it the crimped 
or crimpled appearance of a leaf. 

The egg pan, of which I have made frequent 
mention, and neglected to describe, should be made 
of good, heavy tin, any size, with about these pro- 
portions: Top, fourteen inches in diameter; bottom, 
nine and one-half inches, and rounded, ten inches 
deep, and two side handles. This almost indispensa- 
ble utensil can be put to many uses in the shop, and 
is much better than copper pans in which to beat 
eggs, meringues, sponge cake, Charlotte Russe, etc. 

EXTRACT OF VANILLA. 

Those who wish to make their own extract vanilla 
will rind the following formula satisfactory : Take a 
half pound of the best Mexican bean, slit them from 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. I07 

end to end with a penknife, then cut crosswise as fine 
as you can with a pair of sharp shears; put them into 
a two quart packing bottle and add one quart of water 
and one quart of proof alcohol, or neutral spirits, cork 
tight and keep in a moderately warm temperature; 
shake up the contents occasionally and allow it to in- 
fuse for several weeks — several months would be 
better. A little Tonka bean can be used if you wish 
to add pungency to the flavor, but it should be used 
very sparingly — not more than one ounce of Tonka 
to eisfht ounces of Vanilla bean. 



CAKE BAKING. 



REMARKS. 

Under this head, I will give recipes for those goods 
only best adapted to the confectioner's trade outside 
of the general baking business. 

As a rule, soft, moist flours are the best for cake- 
baking. In some cases the best results are attained 
by mixing two different brands of flour, and often a 
recipe will give splendid results with one brand and 
prove unsatisfactory with another. The workman 
must consider these things, and make use of his wits 
as well as his hands. 

The number of eggs given in each recipe is based 
on the average sized cgg^ viz. : two ounces — one ounce 
for the white, three-fourths of an ounce for the yolk, 
and one-fourth of an ounce for the shell. If the eggs 
vafy from this very much, either large or small, 
allowance should be made. 

POUND CAKE. 

One pound powdered sugar and fourteen ounces 
of best fresh butter, beat or rubbed in a wooden bowl 



MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. 109 

until very light and creamy, with a few drops oil of 
lemon or other flavor. Break in the eggs, two or 
three at a time, and stir just enough to mix smooth 
and even, without beating. Then sift in one pound 
flour; mix just sufficient to incorporate the flour 
evenly. Bake in a moderate oven. 

JELLY CAKE. 

Same as for pound cake. Spread in jelly cake 
pans and bake in a quick oven. 

JELLY ROLL. 

Same as pound cake. Spread in a thin square 
sheet on paper and bake in a quick oven. While 
warm remove the paper and spread with jelly, not 
that glucose abomination sold in bulk at the grocery 
stores, but pure fruit jell) 7 . Commence at one edge 
and roll the sheet into a round roll, and wrap it in a 
sheet of paper to keep the shape until cold. A jelly 
roll can be made of sponge-cake dough also. 

JELLY DIAMONDS. 

Make and bake as for jelly roll, divide the sheet 
into two equal parts, spread one with jelly and place 
the other on top; over this spread a thin coating of 
soft icing, and cut into square or diamond-shaped 
pieces. A very little tine sugar sand can be sprinkled 



IIO THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

in streaks of red and green on the icing before cutting 
into pieces. 

FRUIT CAKE. 

Eighteen ounces of powdered sugar and fourteen 
ounces of butter, beat light, and add ten eggs as for 
pound cake. Add one-fourth ounce of ground mace 
and a half ounce each of ground cinnamon and cloves, 
one gill of brandy, then seventeen ounces of flour. 
After all is mixed, work in the fruit in the following 
proportions: Half a pound of citron and four ounces 
of candied lemon and orange peel cut into small strips, 
four pounds Sultana raisins, and half a pound of fine 
large raisins seeded. Bake in a slow oven. To clean 
the Sultana raisins, pick them apart, put them in a 
large coarse sieve, dust them with a little flour, and 
rub them with the hand to free them from the small 
stems, shake them well and throw on to a sheet of 
paper and carefully pick out all stones, large stems or 
other rubbish. Dried currants can be used instead of 
Sultana raisins, but are not so nice. 

WHITE OR DELICATE CAKE. 

One pound of powdered sugar and fourteen ounces 
of butter, rubbed very light. A little flavor, either 
lemon, vanilla or almond. Add the whites of four- 
teen eggs, a few at a time, stirring just enough to mix 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. Ill 

even and smooth, then sift in one pound of flour and 
mix lightly. Bake in a moderate oven. 

CITRON CAKE. 

Same as white, with a half pound citron cut into 
thin strips. 

HICKORY NUT CAKE. 

Same as white, with half a pound coarsely chopped 
hickory nut meats. 

MARBLE CAKE. 

Mix same as for white cake. Put a portion of the 
dough into an earthen bowl, and mix in sufficient 
liquid carmine to color a bright pink. In another 
bowl mix a portion of the dough with finely grated 
sweet chocolate to color brown. Fill the cake mould 
with a portion of the white, pink and brown, alter- 
nately, but not in layers. Take a small stick, thrust 
in the dough to bottom of mould and drag through 
the dough zig-zag, not too much. 

ANGEL CAKE. 

Ten ounces flour; twenty ounces tine powdered 
sugar; two teaspoons even full of cream tartar and a 
pinch of salt; mix all together and put through a 
flour sieve several times; beat the whites of twenty- 



112 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

two eggs quite stiff, adding a little vanilla or other 
flavor; then work the flour and sugar lightly into the 
eggs, just enough to mix evenly; put into a mould 
and bake in a moderate oven; when clone place the 
mould up side down and let remain until cool. For 
this cake have your mould clean and dry, but not 
buttered. For all other loaf cakes, pound, etc., the 
moulds should be buttered and neatly papered. Give 
the angel cake a coat of thin, soft icing. 

CREAM PUFFS. 

To one pint of milk; add one ounce sugar and 
four ounces butter; place on fire in a bright copper 
pan; when it boils set off, and with a paddle stir in 
nine ounces of flour to a smooth, stiff paste ; set aside 
in an earthern bowl until nearly cold, then stir in, one 
at a time, eight eggs, making a smooth, softish paste. 
With a tablespoon lay out the paste in round heaps, 
the size needed, two inches or more apart, on bake 
pans slightly greased with lard and dusted with flour. 
With a soft brush or piece of muslin wash them with 
Qgg yolks beaten with a little water. Bake in a 
rather quick oven until well colored and firm. When 
cold cut a slit in one side of the puffs and fill with 
the following mixture: One pint milk, three eggs, 
three ounces sugar and two ounces flour. Make the 
flour into a thin, smooth paste with a portion of the 
milk; beat the eggs and sugar together, then put all 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. II3 

together in a pan; set on fire and stir until it thiekens; 
put in an earthen vessel to cool and flavor with va- 
nilla. To make the filling thicker or thinner use more 
or less flour. Water, instead of milk, can be used 
for the puffs. 

CREAM KISSES. 

Beat the whites of eight fresh eggs in the egg-pan 
to a very stiff snow; add two or three drops oil of 
lemon ; then stir in lightly one pound powdered sugar. 
Have a smooth board; dampen the surface and lay 
on it a sheet of manilla paper. On this lay out the 
kisses by means of a canvass bag with a tin tube in 
the small end. Lay them an inch apart. Bake in a 
very slow oven fifteen or twenty minutes, or just 
enough to form a good crust on the outside, leaving 
the inside moist and creamy. Lift them from the 
paper with a thin bladed spatula and place two 
together. Be sure to beat the eggs, not only very 
stiff but tough, then there will be no failure. 

LADY FINGERS. 

One pound flour, one pound sugar and twelve 
eggs. Whip the whites to a froth, then add about 
half the sugar by degrees, continuing the beating 
very stiff, then the yolks and balance of the sugar, 
and heat well; flavor, and with the hand mix in the 
flour lightly and evenly; with a dressing bag and 
15 



114 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

small tube lay out the mixture, an inch apart, on ma- 
nilla paper; sift a little powdered sugar over them; 
shake off the surplus sugar by taking hold of two 
corners of the paper and lifting it up clear of the 
table; then place on a bake pan and bake in a quick 
oven. When cold wet back of paper with a brush or 
sponge, and the ringers will come off easily. Stick 
them together in pairs of uniform size. This (sponge 
cake dough) can be made into a variety of forms. 

FINE JUMBLES. 

Two pounds butter, two pounds powdered sugar, 
four pounds flour, sixteen eggs, three-fourths of an 
ounce of carbonate of ammonia, half a gill of milk. 
Rub the sugar and butter together evenly, but not 
light; add a few drops oil of lemon; stir in the eggs, 
two or three at a time, and work just enough to mix 
smooth, then add the ammonia, pounded line and dis- 
solved in the milk, then mix in the flour. With a jum- 
ble forcer lay out the dough into long ropes on a flour- 
dusted table; cut into lengths of about four inches; 
bring the ends together, forming a circle; place on 
greased bake pans and bake in a moderate oven. The 
pans should be thick ones, or put two thin pans to- 
gether. 

MACAROONS. 

One pound of blanched almonds, pounded in a 
stone mortar to a smooth paste with a little white of 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. I I 5 

egg to prevent oiling; add the whites of ten or twelve 
eggs, and two pounds of powdered sugar; stir all 
together until quite light, which will take considera- 
ble time; lay out in balls about the size of a hickory 
nut, an inch or more apart, on manilla paper placed 
on bake pans; moisten the tops with a wet sponge, 
and bake in a slow oven. When cold wet the back 
of the paper to remove the macaroons. If you have 
no stone mortar, grind the almonds with the caramel 
cutter on a clean table, and put through a fine flour 
sieve; put them in the egg-pan with the eggs and 
sugar, and with a long-handled wooden paddle stir 
until light. The almonds can be used without 
blanching if desired. Almond paste already prepared 
can be bought, and is a great convenience. Keep 
macaroons from the air in jars or tin boxes. 

FRIED CAKES. 

One pint sweet milk, fifteen ounces sugar, one and 
one-half ounce butter, three or four eggs, two and 
one-half pounds flour, two ounces best baking powder 
and a little salt. Rub the sugar and butter together; 
mix in the eggs and salt, then add the milk; mix well 
and then add the flour in which the baking powder 
has been previously mixed. Roll out on board a 
quarter of an inch or more thick; cut with a round 
cutter having an inside ring to cut out the center; lay 
them on pans covered with muslin and dusted lightly 



Il6 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

with flour. Fry them by immersing in smoking hot 
lard. When done throw them on to a wire screen to 
drain. If the dough is too soft, add more flour. If 
the cakes are too rich ("greasy") use less butter. 
Use more baking powder if not light enough, and try 
different brands of flour. It is almost impossible to 
give recipes exactly suited to all of the different con- 
ditions and qualities of material. 

In baking, all flour and sugar should be sifted be- 
fore using, and bear in mind that a first-class cake can 
be made only with first-class ingredients. There is 
no hocus pocus method of changing a mess of inferior 
raw material into a gilt edged product, and this 
applies in particular to that mal-odorous villainy 
known to fame as "Cooking Butter." 

You can spice, and stir, and bake as yon will, 

But the odor of the thing will linger there still. 

ICING OR FROSTING 

Is made by beating together powdered sugar and the 
whites of eggs. For second coating and ornamenting 
it should be made of the finest lozenge sugar, which 
is ground almost as fine as flour. To ice a five or six 
pound loaf cake, the first coat (which is merely to lay 
the crumbs and give a foundation for the second coat) 
may be made of fine powdered sugar and the white 
of one egg beat light and spread over the cake, which 
has been previously trimmed into shape. The second 



MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. Iiy 

coat will require about three eggs, and more if to be 
ornamented. Put the eggs into a smooth earthen 
bowl ; add by degrees sufficient lozenge sugar to make 
a soft paste, and a pinch of tartaric acid; with a 
small paddle beat until very white, light and firm. 
Have the cake setting on a flat plate somewhat 
smaller than the bottom of the cake. With a case- 
knife apply the icing to the side of the cake, making 
it as smooth as possible. Then spread a coat of icing 
evenly over the top of the cake. Have already pre- 
pared a strip of writing or strong manilla paper, an 
inch or more in width, and a little longer than the 
diameter of the cake, hold the ends of the paper be- 
tween the thumb and finger of each hand and drag 
the lower edge of the strip steadily and firmly over 
the top of the cake from one side to the other. This 
will leave the icing smooth and without seams and 
ready for ornamenting. 

It is not the intention of the writer to give partic- 
ular instructions in ornamenting. That, in itself, 
would be sufficient material for a book, and would 
not probably be well understood by the novice, who 
should acquire at least a rudimental knowledge from 
personal instruction. The icing for ornamenting 
should be light and firm, retaining any shape or posi- 
tion given it. It is applied by forcing through the 
point of a cornet of paper or other material. Ta- 
pered, metal tubes of various shapes and sizes are 



Il8 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

used thus: Make a cornet (funnel-shaped bag) of 
ornamenting paper; cut off the point sufficiently to 
allow the tube, which is dropped into the cornet, to 
protrude half its length; fill the cornet two-thirds full 
of the icing, and close the top securely by folding it 
in. You are then ready to materialize whatever of 
art is in you. 

A delicious soft icing, suitable for angel cake, fin- 
ing for layer cakes, and many other uses, can be made 
from fondant and white of egg, beaten light in the 
same manner as for sugar icing. Less egg will be 
needed, owing to the moisture in the fondant. Low 
cooked fondant can be used without egg by melting 
and applying while hot. 



SYRUPS FOR SODA WATER 



FOUNDATION, OR SIMPLE SYRUP. 

Cut up one ounce of Cooper^ sheet gelatine and 
soak a half-hour or more in a pint of cold water. 
Take three gallons — less one pint — of clear spring 
water, put in a bright copper pan, add the gelatine, 
and place on a dead fire. Heat the water sufficiently 
to dissolve the gelatine, but not hot enough to steam, 
then add thirty-nine pounds of crystal A, or other re- 
fined sugar of the best quality, stir occasionally until 
sugar is dissolved; skim, and strain through a muslin 
cloth. To mix syrups in, have as many half-gallon or 
one-gallon bottles as you make different flavors. 

FRUIT ACID. 

Take one pound citric acid, pound it in a porcelain 
mortar, put in a bottle and add one pint of clear 
water, shake occasionally, and it will dissolve in a few 
hours. 



120 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

LEMON SYRUP. 

Put two quarts simple syrup into a bottle, add 
four ounces fruit acid and a few drops oil of lemon; 
shake well and it is ready for use. 

VANILLA SYRUP. 

Two quarts simple syrup, a few drops of fruit acid 
and sufficient extract vanilla to flavor. Color with a 
little caramel (burnt sugar). 

SARSAPARILLA SYRUP. 

Two quarts simple syrup, a few drops acid, flavor 
with extract sarsaparilla or with a few drops of oil of 
sassafras, and same of oil of wintergreen, color with 
B sugar. 

GINGER SYRUP. 

Two quarts syrup, extract or essence of ginger to 
suit the taste, one drachm acid. 

NECTAR SYRUP. 

Two quarts syrup, one drachm acid, flavor with 
extract nectar, or flavor lightly with vanilla and add 
three or four drops each of oil lemon and extract of 
pineapple, color light with carmine. 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 12 1 

COFFEE SYRUP. 

Roast and grind a half-pound best Java coffee, add 
to a half-gallon water, set on the lire, and when it 
commences to boil set off and let stand, covered, ten 
or fifteen minutes, strain, and if needed add enough 
water to make two quarts, add six and one-half 
pounds sugar, keep warm until sugar is dissolved, 
then skim and strain. 

CHOCOLATE SYRUP. 

Shave line three ounces chocolate, put in a shal- 
low tin stew-pan, with just a little water, and stir 
over a gentle fire until melted to a smooth paste, then 
stir in gradually one pint simple syrup; when about 
the boiling point and the chocolate smoothly incor- 
porated,. take off and strain; when cold add sufficient 
simple syrup to make two quarts; flavor with vanilla 
and shake well. 

FRUIT SYRUPS— ARTIFICIAL. 

Very nice fruit syrup can be made with artificial 
flavors, if used judiciously. The flavor should be 
just perceptible to the taste. If highly flavored they 
are simply abominable. For either strawberry, rasp- 
berry or pineapple take two quarts syrup and three 
drachms acid, a few drops of fruit extract and color 
to suit. 

16 



122 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

FRUIT SYRUPS — GENUINE. 

Take one quart of fruit juice, add three quarts 
water and a little dissolved gelatine; place on rlre in 
a copper pan and add thirteen pounds sugar; stir until 
sugar is dissolved; set off and let stand a few minutes; 
take off the scum from the surface and strain; color 
appropriate to the fruit and add sufficient fruit acid 
(about six drachms to the gallon) to make pleasantly 
tart; keep in corked glass bottles or earthen jugs in 
a cool place. 

CREAM SYRUP. 

Mix together an equal quantity each of cold simple 
syrup and sweet cream, or sweet cream alone can be 
added to the syrup in the glass before drawing. An- 
other way: Scald one pint of rich sweet milk with 
one pound sugar. These should be prepared in small 
quantities and kept in glass bottles. 

ICE CREAM SODA, 

If properly made, is a delicious and satisfying drink, 
and is steadily increasing in popularity. It is made 
by simply adding ice cream (a heaping teaspoonful, 
more or less) to the syrup, any flavor, in the glass, 
mixing thoroughly with the syrup and drawing as for 
other soda. 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 1 23 

ICE CREAM PUNCH. 

Alias Ambrosia, alias Giraffe, alias Kangaroo, ct al. 

No matter what name is given it, it will secure 
itself a permanent hold on any soulful community 
when once introduced. To half a gallon vanilla 
syrup add eight ounces best brandy and four ounces 
Jaimaca rum and a few drops tincture of mace; shake 
well together. Use same as other syrups, adding two 
heaping teaspoons of vanilla ice cream to the syrup 
in the glass, and mix thoroughly; then draw on the 
carbonated water, stirring gently the while. A rye 
straw will serve to prolong the ecstacy. 



OYSTER COOKING 



As in all other products, the results will depend 
largely upon the quality of the material used, and on 
the skill and care exercised in the preparation. Those 
fortunate mortals who dwell on the coast, and near to 
the habitat of the oyster, boast (and with good 
reason) of the advantages they enjoy over their fellow 
mortals who live in the far interior, and yet, with the 
modern transportation facilities, it is possible for even 
the frontier epicure to hold pleasant and satisfactory 
communion with the divine bivalve — provided, 
always, that the cook does his duty. 

STEWED OYSTERS. 

To get the best effects each individual stew should 
be cooked separately and quickly, in a small tin stew- 
pan wide and shallow, and with a flat bottom if used 
on a stove or range. Unless otherwise ordered, the 
oysters should not be allowed to remain on the fire 
after boiling has commenced, and do' nt deluge the 
oysters with water or milk, sacrificing quality to 
quantity in order to "set up a big dish. 1 ' 



MODERN RETAIL CONFECTIONER. 



PLAIN OR WATER STEW. 



I2 5 



Put a dozen or more nice oysters into the stew- 
pan with a portion of the liquor and water — not too 
much — add a little salt and pepper and a generous 
piece of fresh, sweet butter; set on the fire, and re- 
move a second or two after it commences to boil. 

MILK STEW. 

Put the oysters into the stew-pan with a little of 
the liquor, or water, salt and pepper. When it comes 
to a boil add sufficient fresh sweet milk and the butter. 
When it comes to the boiling point again set off and 
serve. A pinch of finely chopped celery will impart 
a fine flavor to either water or milk stews, and to 
heighten the oyster flavor add a tablespoonful of 
oyster paste, prepared in this way : Parboil a quantity 
of oysters in their own liquor, drain them and when 
cool remove the muscle or hard part, and chop the 
oysters quite fine, and then rub them in a mortar to a 
smooth paste, using a little of the liquor if too stiff. 

PAN ROAST. 

Put a dozen large plump oysters in the stew-pan 
with just enough of the liquor or water to stew them 
in; salt, pepper and butter. Let them parboil, or a 
little more, but not enough to shrink them. When 
done place the oysters on a piece of nicely browned 



126 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

and buttered toast on a warm platter and pour the 
liquor over them. Garnish with a sprig or two of 
parsley or thin slices of lemon, or both, and serve 
hot. 

BROIL. 

Only the finest large oysters should be used. 
Have a rather close woven-wire broiler, double. 
Rub it well with a piece of butter -enclosed in a 
small piece of muslin. Place the oysters on the 
broiler, close it, and set over a clear fire. Broil 
quick — but don't scorch — on both sides. When 
done, open the broiler, carefully lift the oysters with 
a fork and place them on a piece of golden toast, 
which has been previously prepared, buttered and 
moistened with a little sweet cream, placed on a 
platter and kept warm in the oven. With a teaspoon 
put a little melted butter on each oyster. Garnish 
with parsley or lemon slices and serve hot. 

SHELL ROAST. 

Scrub the shells clean and roast on a gridiron or 
in a hot oven, deep shell down. When well opened 
with the heat they are done, and can be served in 
the deep shell on a large platter, or in this manner: 
Melt a piece of butter, with a little salt and pepper, 
in a small pan. When the oysters are done throw 
them, with their liquor, or a portion of it, into the 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 1 27 

pan with the butter, shake all well together and pour 
over a piece of toast same as for a broil. Garnish 
and serve hot. 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

Take large, plump oysters, rinse in cold water, 
drain, and place between the folds of a clean towel 
or muslin cloth to dry. Beat well two eggs (two 
whole eggs and the yolk of one is better), dip the 
oysters, one at a time, into the egg, and lay them into 
a pan of finely rolled or ground oyster-crackers, cover 
the oysters with the cracker meal and pat them gently 
with the hand to make the meal adhere to all parts of 
the oyster. Have a thick iron skillet, and a clear fire 
that will heat all parts of the skillet alike. Take just 
enough nice sweet lard, with a piece of butter the 
size of a hickory nut, to barely cover the bottom of 
the skillet, when melted; let the lard get smoking hot, 
set off and put in the oysters, one at a time, carefully 
but quickly; cloiVt crowd them. When done to a 
rich golden yellow on one side, which will take but a 
few moments, turn them, and be very careful not to 
scorch or overdo them. When done, tip the skillet 
on edge to drain, while you sprinkle a little salt over 
the oysters, then place them neatly — right side up — 
on a warmed platter. Garnish and serve hot. 

There are other ways of preparing fried oysters: 
Using corn-meal or bread crumbs instead of cracker 



128 THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 

meal. Frying by immersing in hot lard, as for 
doughnuts. Some claim that butter is the only tit 
material to fry oysters in. My experience has taught 
me that the higher the temperature you can give the 
frying material, without scorching, the better, as it 
instantly hardens the egg and prevents the grease 
from penetrating to the oyster, and there is no ma- 
terial that I know of that will meet this requirement 
more fully than pure sweet lard. Never put the 
second frying into the skillet without first rinsing it 
with hot water and wiping dry. 



COFFEE. 

A good cup of coffee is the exception rather than 
the rule in the experience of the average person, and 
yet it is the most simple thing in the world to make, 
if good coffee and enough of it be used. The causes 
of a "poor cup of coffee" may be summed up thus: 
An inferior grade of coffee, improper roasting, too 
little coffee for the amount of water used, and too 
much boiling, which dissipates the aroma — the soul 
of the coffee — and intensifies the bitter principle. 

Take of the best quality, nicely roasted and 
ground coffee, a generous quantity, at least six ounces 
to a gallon of water, mix in a bowl with a little white 
of egg^ and wet with cold water; leave out the egg 



THE MODERN CONFECTIONER. 129 

if you choose. Have the water boiling hot in a clean 
coffee boiler; stir in the coffee, and when it com- 
mences to boil stir again; close the lid and set the 
pot where it will keep the coffee at the boiling point, 
but not boiling; steep a few minutes and set off, add 
a little cold water, let it rest a minute and it is done. 
Serve with cream. Skim milk will demoralize the 
best coffee ever made. If the coffee is to be kept 
any length of time, pour it off of the grounds, and 
do' nt use the grounds the second time. 

The same rules apply to tea. A generous quan- 
tity of good tea and a small amount of steeping. No 
boiling. 



E X D .^O<~»3o c <— 



j.-«<t 



•^v.-'** 




m 'Vj >';r$&?l*<£>A 



•>-;>; ; 



■ I 







I* 



•■*.* ■ 



■ 



■ 










